How to use the guide?

It’s really easy!

The itinerary I have created is set up so that you have a practical route to explore the city! Before each attraction you will find buttons like the one below 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻

Just press over the button and you will be guided with google maps to the next point! Once you reach your destination you can come back to this guide and read or listen to all the information and trivia!

In the next paragraph I will also leave you with a map of the entire route but you won’t need it to explore the city!

If you want to see a demo of how to use the guide, click on the button below 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻

What to do in Monte Isola in a day (🌸"Festa dei fiori / Festa di Santa Croce" edition 🌸)

Monte Isola: what a magical place! I admit that I love this place as I spent most of my childhood there! All of my relatives (on my father’s side) are really from here!

If you are on this page it means that you came for the amazing “Festa dei Fiori” and you will start from Carzano! However in this guide I’ll give you info to explore the whole island!

The tour is about 9 km, 100 meters of elevation gain, which can be done in about two hours (I recommend, however, that you take a break or more and enjoy it if you can!). You can even decide to rent a bike and do the tour in this way (you may have to walk your bike uphill, but it will be great fun on flat ground and downhill!): you’ll find a rent in Peschiera (click here) or in Carzano (click here).

You can also decide to go all the way to the Shrine! There are several trails starting from Carzano, Peschiera and Siviano. Or you can take the bus to Cure and do only the last part of the walk (about 20/25 minutes uphill). However, consider that the trails require a minimum of athletic training (nothing impossible though)!

PS: if you need any support, feel free to text me on my WhatsApp by clicking here!

And now… let’s start our tour! 

The tour!

Map Preview & How to use it

Let me show you the preview of our route! By scrolling the guide you will find buttons to click that will always take you to the next attraction/monument (so this map is just to give you an idea about the itinerary, no need to use it now🤓)!

The yellow markers are the monuments and attractions we will see.

The red indicators, on the other hand, are some of my favorite restaurants (I tell you more about them at the end)!

I would say we are ready to get started!

Introduction & History of the island

Welcome to magnificent Monte Isola, Europe’s largest lake island. Its waters teem with fish, the landscape is varied and in many places still wild, its inhabitants reserved but hospitable, at first suspicious but genuine.


A mountain in the middle of the lake, declared one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Monte Isola has a total surface area of 4.5 square kilometers, a circumference of approximately 9 kilometers, an altitude of up to 600 meters, and a population of approximately 1,811 people.

Before we begin our exploration, a little history of the island!

From Roman vineyards to medieval monasteries

As early as Roman times, olive trees, vineyards, and chestnut trees clung to the shores of Lake Iseo. In the Middle Ages, the island came under the care of Benedictine monks and nuns, who reclaimed the land and established the first structured cultivations.

Castles, visiting nobles and… hunting trips

Between 1300 and 1400, Monte Isola was under the influence of powerful families. During those years, Matteo II Visconti, Lord of Milan (brother of Galeazzo II and Bernabò), also arrived as a guest of the noble Oldofredi family of Brescia.

He wasn’t on a political mission: he came mainly for hunting and to enjoy the view from the island, which at the time was also a strategic vantage point for controlling the lake.

A few decades later, in 1489, Caterina Cornaro, a Venetian noblewoman and former queen of Cyprus, Armenia, and Jerusalem, landed here. After handing over her throne to the Republic of Venice, she treated herself to a stay at the Castello Oldofredi di Menzino : no court intrigue, just the pleasure of breathing in the fresh air and being enchanted by the lake.

Venice, fishing and traditions

From 1426 to 1797, Monte Isola was under the rule of the Republic of Venice, which encouraged fishing and made net-making famous—an art that, over time, would even provide a venue for international sporting events.

From the Madonna protector to the Second World War

At the highest point of the island stands the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Ceriola , a devotion to which dates back at least to the 5th century. In 1836, when a cholera epidemic spared Monte Isola, the faithful attributed the miracle to her protection, and even today a feast in her honor is celebrated every July.

Monte Isola is an irresistible mix of Roman agriculture, medieval monasteries, defensive castles, royal visits, sustainable innovations, spiritual protection and… a network of artisans that has traveled the world.

Monte Isola has always been a picture of peace… but here too, war came knocking.

It was November 5, 1944: the steamer “Iseo,” which connected the Brescia and Bergamo shores, was carrying civilians—women, men, children—and a few passing German soldiers. There were about 90 people on board. Suddenly, the sky became noisy and two planes appeared over the lake and attacked the boat.

Why it was hit?

The Second World War was in its final, chaotic phase: Northern Italy was under the Italian Social Republic, supported by German troops, and the Allies were intensifying operations to disrupt Nazi-Fascist connections and supplies.
That day, two British Royal Air Force fighters reconnaissance over Lake Iseo likely mistook the ferry for a military transport or war material—a hypothesis strengthened by the presence of several German soldiers on board.

The attack

Around noon, between Tavernola Bergamasca and Porto di Siviano (Monte Isola), the two planes dived, strafing the vessel several times. The water filled with shrapnel and waves, and panic broke out on board.
The toll was tragic: 42 dead and 33 injured, mostly civilians.

The memory

The episode has remained etched in the island’s memory. Every year, the community remembers the victims with a ceremony and a memorial mass. Many elders still recount seeing the sky shatter with a roar of engines and gunfire, on a day that until a few minutes earlier had been a normal lakeside routine.

And now we can start our exploration! If you arrived to Carzano you can freely wander through the village and enjoy the amazing flowers! 

Arriving from the pier I recommend moving to the right side of the village as then our route will take us to the left (toward Peschiera).

A. Carzano

Here we are in Carzano, another truly picturesque village! Carzano is that little gem in the northeast of the island that makes you think, “Okay, this is a place that lives without haste.”

Located right on the water’s edge, Carzano is connected to Sale Marasino by a ferry that sails so frequently you’d think you had a direct line to the mainland. 

Its center unfolds along a single, narrow, cobbled street that begins with the houses of fishermen and ferrymen, occasionally flanked by elegant historic homes. And at the top, as if to protect the village, stands the Church of San Giovanni Battista , perched on a hill along the main road.

The town is also famous for a crazy festival: the Festa di Santa Croce.

Every five years, Carzano (along with the nearby village of Novale) is transformed into a veritable enchanted garden: medieval streets, pine tree arches, and dozens (so many!) of handmade paper flowers blooming along the floors and facades, illuminated by thousands of fairy lights that make them seem alive even in the dark.

The story behind this spectacle is equally touching: in 1836 , during a cholera epidemic that decimated the lakeside communities, the islanders made a vow to the Holy Cross: if it were over, they would celebrate a solemn feast every five years. It seems the disease was stopped almost miraculously… and since then the promise has been renewed with faith and creativity. Some older versions suggest origins dating back to the 17th century, linked to a plague epidemic, but the most established tradition is the one linked to the cholera of 1836.

The heart of the celebration is September 14th , the day of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, with an evocative procession that carries a relic of the Cross of Christ through the two villages, wrapped in a sacred and fairy-tale atmosphere.

Imagine: more than 200,000 paper flowers (in the latest significant edition alone) blooming everywhere, from simple buds to intricate orchids and wisterias, so detailed they look real.

And the celebration isn’t just about folklore: there’s also genuine civic participation. Residents pay out of their own pockets, organize fundraisers with charity fishing and automation… in short, the community here truly comes together!

In short, the Feast of the Holy Cross is one of those experiences that soothes the soul: a mix of devotion, craftsmanship, community, and magic that only Monte Isola can offer.

After visiting Carzano we can take a nice walk to Peschiera and then continue by completing the island tour. If you want to go to the “Santuario” from here you can start your trail from this place (click here to get there) and follow the signs (1h15 min more or less and 400 meters of elevation gain).

I will put a little in-depth discussion in next paragraph. Feel free to take the ride you prefer anyway!

It’s certainly a strenuous climb up there… but what a view! Once you reach the top, the feeling is truly breathtaking!

A 360° view of Monte Isola from above will be your reward (perhaps along with a snack you’ve brought from home or can grab at the small, picturesque “cafe” at the top, which resembles a mountain hut stocked with a selection of survival supplies. I hope for you that you can find the bar open!).

Unfortunately, I can’t be impartial, but bread and salame (“pà e salam” in local dialect) eaten with this view is even more delicious!

At an altitude of about 600 meters, surrounded by chestnut groves and Dolomite rocks, stands the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Ceriola , the oldest church on the island, dating back to the 13th century.

The venerated wooden statue of the Virgin—dating back to the 12th century and carved from a Turkey oak trunk—depicts the Madonna seated on a throne holding the Child in her arms, which likely gives it its name, ” Ceriola .” The sanctuary’s most ancient origins date back to the mid-5th century, when Saint Vigilius, Bishop of Brescia, spread the Christian faith in the Sebino area, erecting a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary as a symbol of purification from pagan superstitions.

Called Santa Maria de Curis , it was the island’s first parish and the first church on the lake dedicated to the Madonna, as attested in documents from 1410. Over the centuries, the building underwent numerous expansions and modernizations: the current structure was developed in the 16th century, while the new presbytery was built in the 17th century; in 1750, the granite bell tower was added and the vaults were decorated.

In 1815, a lightning strike caused part of the plaster on the facade to peel off: underneath, a 15th-century fresco depicting Christ Ecce Homo, attributed to Giovanni da Marone, emerged.

During the cholera epidemic of 1836, the islanders went in procession to the sanctuary making a vow to the Madonna: the disease ceased and, since then, every second Sunday of July the feast of the Madonna del Colera has been celebrated.

In 1924, the statue was solemnly crowned with a golden crown made with donations from the island’s inhabitants – it was a deeply felt event for the community, attracting thousands of faithful and leading the sanctuary to represent the identity of Monte Isola, so much so that it appeared on the municipal coat of arms.

Once you’ve reached this point, you can descend along the path that will take you directly to Peschiera in about 60 minutes (click here to reach the trail’s starting point and follow the simple signs). This road offers some truly breathtaking panoramic views!

If you’re tired, you can walk to the bus station (about 20 minutes downhill from the sanctuary, click here to get there) and then get to Peschiera this way (ticket: €2).

While you walk, let me tell you something about a delicious thing that we already mentioned: the “salame” of Monte Isola!

In Monte Isola, making salami isn’t just a simple kitchen chore: it’s a true family ritual , passed down from generation to generation with the same care and attention that goes into guarding a treasure. Between January and February, every home in Cure, Masse, Olzano, and Senzano is transformed into a small artisanal workshop where the protagonist is the pig, or rather… its future salami!

The watchword here is: no electricity! Yes, you read that right, cutting meat is a job for true “artists” with a knife in hand, and electric mincers are not allowed, as they’re guilty of ruining the perfect consistency. Four “experts” divide the tasks with obsessive precision: one cuts, one kneads, one stuffs, and one ties, all strictly by hand, while the moon, the real one, is kept under observation like an oracle—because on Monte Isola, it’s said that only a waning moon guarantees a salami worthy of applause. If you really can’t wait, a waxing moon is fine… but only if it’s Friday (I’m not joking, that’s the real story)!

But the real magic happens in the ” cà del salam ,” an ancient cellar with stone walls and vaulted ceilings, where the salami is smoked. Here, a dry wood fire burns continuously for days, releasing fragrant smoke that makes the salami unique. Be careful, though: the ” cà del salam” are few and far between, so reservations are essential, and usually, the salami from four or five pigs is smoked in a single cellar. A true feast for the nose!

After about 30 days of patient waiting, the salami is ready to be enjoyed—either expertly preserved, hung in cellars, or immersed in terracotta amphorae filled with fat, an ancient trick that preserves its deliciousness and makes any modern refrigerator jealous. Montisola emigrants swear they can’t get the same flavor anywhere else: it’s the magical combination of climate, air, smoke, and… tradition that makes this salami inimitable!

When you pass through Monte Isola, tasting a good typical salame is a must!

Before arriving at your destination you will find another “institution” of the island: I am talking about a boatyard in which they have been building boats since 1600 !

You will find it on your left, 200 meters before the port of Peschiera!

Sebino—here is the “naèt” !

This streamlined and lightweight boat, likely created by a certain Archetti exiled from Venice (or so the legend goes), became the definition of lake versatility. Up to 7 meters long (reduced to 6.40 meters after installing an engine in 1958), 1.40 meters wide with an 80 cm flat bottom, it was perfect for fishing, sailing, and, why not, attracting admiration in a friendly race. Built with chestnut wood for the frame and larch for the other parts: a boat built to last and be loved.

Ercole Archetti: the wood wizard of Monte Isola

The Archetti Ercole shipyard is the cradle of the island’s nautical wonders, with a history spanning centuries: boat building dates back to 1600 !

Even today, Ugo, Angelo, and Adriano Arch (spread across generations) handcraft launches, dinghies, dinghies , and gozzi, combining traditional techniques (chisel and hammer) with fine materials (mahogany, teak, iroko) and modern resins to ensure they stand the test of time. Their work is so refined that the finest naèts end up in ports around the world—from Dubai to Miami!

Think that the “ naèt ” was so much a part of life on the island that a model even ended up in the National Maritime Museum in London , as an ambassador of Lake Iseo in the world.

Furthermore, the craft of the axe is still handed down, and Ercole’s nephew has just earned the title of master shipwright after years of official training… with chisels and a lot of dedication!

B. Peschiera Maraglio

Welcome to Peschiera Maraglio , the village that welcomes almost all visitors to Monte Isola… and does so with a certain style.
Imagine a mosaic made of small stone houses a maze of intricate streets and that unmistakable scent of the lake. Maybe I can’t be impartial because I really have many memories related to my childhood but as soon as we arrive on the island, a smile always appears on my face automatically!

Here, the word “peschiera” isn’t random: for centuries, the town was the beating heart of fishing on Lake Iseo . Sardines, shad, and even bleak—everything ended up hung out to dry in the sun, creating that distinctive aroma that still lingers today if you visit at the right time (or wrong, depending on your nose!).

Once upon a time, every family had its own nets—handmade, of course—and its own wooden boat. And no, they weren’t called “vintage yachts,” but simply “fishing boats.”

Today, Peschiera is a beautiful village: little shops selling traditional products, cafés where you can have breakfast overlooking the lake, and little restaurants tempting you with Monte Isola salami and the famous dried sardines . Be warned: it’s easy to come here for a stroll and find yourself still sitting here three hours later with a glass of wine in hand (I speak from experience 😂 ).

We are just at the beginning (and I’ll tell you about my favorite places to eat eventually) but if you’re hungry, I’m already telling you that my favorite place is right near you. It’s called “Isola dei sapori” (click here to get there) and it’s great for both appetizers and a full lunch/dinner!

I’ll leave you a picture to tempt you!

On Monte Isola, fishing isn’t just a job: it’s an art, an open-air show, a bit like a ballet where the lake is the stage and the fishermen… the main actors! In places like Peschiera and Carzano, drying fish is a tradition as old as the island itself. These include sardines (actually agoni , called “sardines” due to their shape) and chub or perch, which are cleaned, salted, and left to dry in the sun, all strictly according to a centuries-old ritual.

The process is a little manual of patience: first brine for 24 hours, then out in the sun for 5–10 days depending on the climate — and some fishermen, faithful to tradition, string the fish on strings stretched between ash or hornbeam arches, the “archetti,” as they once did.

When the fish is nice and dry, it is pressed into iron containers and “sealed” under a layer of extra virgin olive oil, ready to refine its flavour over the months: the sardines become golden and the chub lobster-pink, perfect for grilling with a drizzle of oil, garlic, parsley… and a nice steaming polenta.

The story has ancient roots: it seems that a thousand years ago, the fishermen of the ” Iseo fish market ” had to deliver a quota of dried fish to the Monastery of Santa Giulia in Brescia. The beauty is that this fish can last up to a year (or two, if the oil is changed every so often!), a real godsend for those who once had to survive… and today a wonderful treat for any curious gourmand.

In short, when you see those sardines lined up in the sun, think that they are not just fish: they are stories of the lake, enclosed in an ancient and tasty method!

And if you think it’s just a postcard village… well, wait until you see it at sunset!

Get off the ferry (Pontile 1) walk to the left to discover the beauty of the village. I leave you below the 3 main attractions!

To get there, click here (is located inside the info point)!

If you have 5 minutes you can check this place (no ticket to pay!) A small but fascinating stop for anyone curious about local life: the Museum of Fishing and Lake Traditions.

Inside, you’ll find nets, old fishing tools, and stories that reveal just how much fishing shaped Monte Isola’s history (and dinner tables!). 

Temporary exhibitions are done upstairs and the visit generally takes only a few minutes.

A small church that is “hidden” among the narrow streets of Peschiera. Visiting it will divert you just a few minutes from your route but in my opinion it is worth it just to see a few streets of this beautiful village!

To get there, click here !

The Church of San Michele Arcangelo is a charming piece of Monte Isola’s spiritual heritage. Dating back to the 16th century, it hides baroque details, elegant altars, and  nice artworks.

It’s a peaceful place to catch your breath and maybe whisper a small prayer for another plate of sardines 😁. 

Within walking distance you can also find the Oldofredi Castle.

Unfortunately, it has lost some of its historical charm having become a restaurant (you can see the structure from outside): click here to get there.

From museum to Gothic: the Oldofredi Castle towers on a promontory in the south of the village, so beautiful that it looks hand-drawn. It was founded in medieval times as a defensive stronghold of the Oldofredi family, witnessed as early as 1488 in a notarial deed “in Peschiera di Montisola.”

It is said that in 1497 it hosted Caterina Cornaro, the former queen of Cyprus-a stay worthy of a historical soap! Today, the castle has become a residence with restaurant, an ideal destination for an elegant lunch overlooking the lake, in a courtyard that was once part of a fortress. Among porches, loggias and medieval frescoes sprout Sarnico stone columns and remnants of ancient walls, as if history were winking at you as you sip a glass.

Let’s continue along the road to head to the next place: Sensole! Click on the button below to get there!

While walking I have to delve into a historical event for the island!

Summer 2016: Monte Isola awoke to a mind-blowing surprise—a 3-kilometer-long golden carpet appeared, connecting the island to Sulzano and the islet of San Paolo. No, it wasn’t the set of a fantasy film, but “The Floating Piers” by the artist Christo, famous for his gigantic and slightly crazy works that always make people ask, “How did he even think of that?”

For 16 days, from June 18th to July 3rd, anyone could literally walk on the water of Lake Iseo thanks to this 16-meter-wide floating walkway, covered with 70,000 square meters of yellow-orange fabric —just think, a covering larger than nine football fields! The fabric swayed gently underfoot, following the rhythm of the waves, giving the sensation of walking on a flying carpet (or almost).

But don’t think it all happened by magic: it took three weeks of intense assembly and a lot of sweat to assemble the floating structures and lay out the fabric.

The day before the opening, the scene was already something out of a movie, with hundreds of people queuing up from 11 pm armed with blankets and sandwiches, ready to claim their “place on the water.”

During the 16 days it was open, more than 1.2 million visitors from around the world flocked to Lake Iseo, transforming Monte Isola into a veritable kingdom of selfies, laughter, and swaying steps. Some went barefoot to feel the lake beneath their feet, while others took the “tourist tour” at least three times, enjoying golden sunsets and open-air embraces.

When the event ended, the catwalk vanished like a summer dream, leaving only indelible memories and millions of social media photos. Those who were there will carry it with them forever, with that “I walked on water” smile they’ll never forget.

PS: I was there too!

C. Sensole

Sensole is a small, charming village on Monte Isola. We’ll just be passing through and won’t see much (the houses are mostly located on side streets, hidden by the beautiful vegetation).

However, arriving in this village is, for me, one of the best things about the entire island. The lakeside walk, the olive trees, the light reflecting off the waters of Lake Iseo… how beautiful!

As you walk, you’ll surely have noticed a beautiful little island to your left. I’ll tell you more about it below!

Imagine a small island that was once nothing more than an abandoned rock, a bit like the classic “place forgotten by all.” Well, that became the Convent of St. Paul! The name is no coincidence: it is said that the apostle Paul was a skilled navigator, capable of taming the storms of the Mediterranean, so naming this rock that was almost like entrusting it with the role of guardian and benevolent refuge for those who landed there.

Way back in the 11th century, the islet passed into the hands of the Mozzi family, who probably “ grabbed ” it in a somewhat mischievous way… but don’t worry, shortly after, in 1091, they returned it (or gave it as a gift) to the Cluniac monks, who founded a priory here linked to the Bergamo monastery of San Paolo d’Aragon.

But the story doesn’t end there! At a certain point, the monastery ended up in the hands of the noble Fenaroli family of Pilzone. These gentlemen, respectful of the local spiritual traditions, decided to entrust it to the Friars Minor of the Observance, while jealously maintaining their family tomb in the convent. Among them, Alessandro Fenaroli stood out, who founded the Observant monastery and is now buried in the church of San Paolo, directly in front of the chapel he had built at his own expense around 1490.

His descendants wanted to leave their mark, painting their coat of arms in the cloister as a testimony to their special bond with the convent, which lasted until, in 1783, everything was closed and the 14 friars were transferred to San Francesco d’Iseo.

From that moment on, the island’s life changed: no more prayers and monastic chants, but a summer vacation home! Today, sadly, virtually nothing remains of that church and ancient cloister, but the history and legends of this little island continue to float in the lake’s waters, ready to be discovered by anyone who decides to visit São Paulo.

In 1916, the island was purchased by the Beretta family, renowned arms manufacturers, who commissioned architect Egidio Dabbeni to build an Art Nouveau villa. This residence, still owned by the Beretta family, is now a private residence and is not accessible to the public. 

However, during Christo’s 2016 art installation “The Floating Piers,” the island was connected to Monte Isola and the mainland by floating walkways, allowing visitors to admire it up close.

On Monte Isola, farming isn’t just a job, it’s a family tradition! Here, every terrace, even the smallest, is lovingly tended by the residents, who cultivate olive trees, vines, and berries. And then there are the wild herbs, the ones that sprout as if by magic and perfume the air, not to mention the honey, a truly sweet and refined treasure that captivates you from the first taste.

Extra virgin olive oil ? It’s the real star here, the island’s green gold! With approximately 15,000 olive trees scattered across the terraces, Monte Isola produces an oil that’s a true delight: golden yellow like the sun, with a fruity aroma and a hint of bitterness and spiciness that makes you want to spread it on everything. After harvesting, the olives end up at the local mill, “La masna de l’isola,” where they are cold-pressed to preserve all their flavor.

In short, when you’re here, don’t miss the chance to taste this liquid gold: you can find it in local shops or directly from the farms, and I guarantee that once you’ve tried it, you’ll want to take some home!

PS: I consider myself quite lucky in that my aunt produces a delicious oil that has been a regular presence in my house since I was born 🥰.

Our walk continues: we begin to climb towards Menzino ! It may seem tiring, but the view will repay every effort! I really love this spot (click here to get there) that is 200 meters before the arrival!

 

D. Menzino

We’ve finally arrived in Menzino . We’re in the smallest village on Monte Isola, and our stay will be very short!

Personally, I have two little spots I adore: the little market where I always went shopping as a child when I spent summers here with my parents (you can find it right down the road by clicking here).

Even today, when I walk in, I feel like I’ve stepped back in time (also, if you want an ice cream, here it’s cheaper 😉) .

Plus, a little further on, you’ll find a small reward for your efforts: a free water dispenser with still and sparkling water! A well-deserved pit stop (click here to get there).

 

Below, I’ll leave you with a little more information about Rocca Martinengo: a fortress about a 10-minute walk from here (if you’ve reached the water dispenser). The structure is impressive, but unfortunately, it’s not open to visitors as it’s a private residence.

Rocca Martinengo is the kind of place that, as soon as you see it, makes you think, “Okay, they mean business here!” Built in the 14th century by the Oldofredi family , this fortress sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking the entire Gulf of Sensole , practically the perfect spot to spy on those arriving from the lake. Its circular tower is like a medieval sentry who never tires of gazing at the view.

In the 15th century, the fortress passed to the Martinengo family, who decided to give it a more “chic” touch, transforming it into a stately residence, adding elegant windows and a stone portal that is a true Renaissance work of art. Today, however, the fortress is privately owned and cannot be visited inside. No tours of the rooms are allowed, but you can admire it from the outside, perhaps by strolling along the “Rocca Martinengo Nature Trail,” which offers spectacular views and a few interesting sights among the woods and terraces.

And now, the juicy part: the legend! It seems that once upon a time, a wicked lord of the castle was a true “pirate” of the lake, who didn’t hesitate to fire his cannons at fishing boats that approached the Serf cliff without lowering their sails, a symbolic gesture of submission to his power. After sinking quite a few boats, people began to see lowering the sails as a sacred act directed at the Blessed Virgin, whose image was even painted on a nearby rock. It’s said that the lord of the castle attempted to erase it… but drowned while attempting to do so. Medieval karma, we’d say!

We continue our walk and head to Siviano!

E. Siviano

Here we are at the island’s official capital, nestled about 250 meters above lake level, where the Martinengo Tower—at least 20 meters high and sturdy as a rock—stands out in the square like an ancient guardian of ancient history.

Built in the 14th century as a watchtower, it later took on residential functions during the Martinengo period, becoming part of a small fortress with walls and a courtyard, with some traces still remaining today (such as the keep and the small courtyard at the back). Unfortunately, it cannot be visited, but you can still admire it from the outside.

Having come this far, I think you deserve a nice, refreshing break! If you want, you can stop at Bar Tina (click here to get there), a local institution! A tip from someone who knows this place very well (the owners are my uncles 😁 ): ask for a table on the balcony and prepare yourself for the view!

 

Before continuing, a necessary in-depth look at another of Monte Isola’s “excellences”: its nets!

On Monte Isola, the net isn’t just a piece of rope: it’s a true protagonist, a thread that weaves together stories, traditions, and… backyard gossip! Legend has it that it all began with a stranger—who knows whether a romantic painter or a slightly exotic traveler—who sat on the shore, following the rhythm of the waves as she wove a long, soft net.

The local women, intrigued, studied it from afar and copied that revolutionary method, which, compared to the torn covers they had used until then, seemed almost magical.

But this isn’t just a fairy tale: already in the 1400s and 1500s, Monte Isola was renowned for its net-making, an art that extended far beyond local fishing. For centuries, in fact, the nets were made strictly by hand by the women of the village, who began working at a young age in courtyards, stables, or in front of their homes—places where the needle (the so-called ocia ) was more than a tool: it was a tool for conversation, legends, laughter, and techniques passed down from generation to generation.

The craft did not remain confined. From the 18th century onwards, the first “factories” were built: around 1800, Monte Isola became a true powerhouse for weaving, exporting it throughout Italy and beyond. As early as 1907, workshops introduced mechanical looms, and from there a rapid evolution began, transforming small workshops into industries proud of their expertise.

Today, even though fishing is no longer the sole driving force, some companies continue to weave nets for football stadiums (including World Cup and European Championships!), playgrounds, security, sports, cable cars, and even fall protection—in short, nets that pop up everywhere!

Siviano is also home to the biggest church of the island: the Church of Saints Faustino and Giovita.

It’s a small gem with Corinthian stucco, 18th-century frescoes, a red and yellow marble altar, and an altarpiece depicting the Madonna della Ceriola among the island’s patron saints. The bell tower, about 40 meters high, is a work built in the early 1700s using entirely stone from the island.

Admission is free and it’s about a 5-minute walk away (but uphill 😅 ). If you’d like to get there, I’ll leave you the location by clicking here.

Now you are faced with a choice: you can decide to reach the famous Ceriola Sanctuary via a trail that lasts about 50/60 minutes and starts from this point (click here to get to the starting point).

The view from the Sanctuary is truly magical, but be prepared to sweat a bit ! 😅 Once you reach the top, you can take a very scenic path through the woods that will take you back to Peschiera in about 50 minutes (don’t worry, I’ll explain everything).

I’ll leave you with more details in this paragraph (same content that you find at the beginning so you can skip it if you already read it).

Alternatively, you can continue the perimeter tour ending again in Carzano. Keep in mind that doing both options (Sanctuary + going back to Carzano) would make the tour quite long, so… the choice is yours!

To find the beginning of the trail that leads you to the “Santuario” from Siviano, click here.

It’s certainly a strenuous climb up there… but what a view! Once you reach the top, the feeling is truly breathtaking!

A 360° view of Monte Isola from above will be your reward (perhaps along with a snack you’ve brought from home or can grab at the small, picturesque “cafe” at the top, which resembles a mountain hut stocked with a selection of survival supplies. I hope for you that you can find the bar open!).

Unfortunately, I can’t be impartial, but bread and salame (“pà e salam” in local dialect) eaten with this view is even more delicious!

At an altitude of about 600 meters, surrounded by chestnut groves and Dolomite rocks, stands the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Ceriola , the oldest church on the island, dating back to the 13th century.

The venerated wooden statue of the Virgin—dating back to the 12th century and carved from a Turkey oak trunk—depicts the Madonna seated on a throne holding the Child in her arms, which likely gives it its name, ” Ceriola .” The sanctuary’s most ancient origins date back to the mid-5th century, when Saint Vigilius, Bishop of Brescia, spread the Christian faith in the Sebino area, erecting a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary as a symbol of purification from pagan superstitions.

Called Santa Maria de Curis , it was the island’s first parish and the first church on the lake dedicated to the Madonna, as attested in documents from 1410. Over the centuries, the building underwent numerous expansions and modernizations: the current structure was developed in the 16th century, while the new presbytery was built in the 17th century; in 1750, the granite bell tower was added and the vaults were decorated.

In 1815, a lightning strike caused part of the plaster on the facade to peel off: underneath, a 15th-century fresco depicting Christ Ecce Homo, attributed to Giovanni da Marone, emerged.

During the cholera epidemic of 1836, the islanders went in procession to the sanctuary making a vow to the Madonna: the disease ceased and, since then, every second Sunday of July the feast of the Madonna del Colera has been celebrated.

In 1924, the statue was solemnly crowned with a golden crown made with donations from the island’s inhabitants – it was a deeply felt event for the community, attracting thousands of faithful and leading the sanctuary to represent the identity of Monte Isola, so much so that it appeared on the municipal coat of arms.

Once you’ve reached this point, you can descend along the path that will take you directly to Peschiera in about 60 minutes (click here to reach the trail’s starting point and follow the simple signs). This road offers some truly breathtaking panoramic views!

If you’re tired, you can walk to the bus station (about 20 minutes downhill from the sanctuary, click here to get there) and then get to Peschiera this way (ticket: €2).

If you’d like to continue the tour, we’ll head towards Carzano! Before we get there, however, we’ll see another small island to keep us company: Loreto Island.

I tell you about this in the next section (in the meantime you can click here to reach a vantage point from which to see the beauty of this island).

Small but with a wealth of stories to tell, Loreto Island sits right there, north of Monte Isola, like a hidden gem facing Carzano. Today it’s privately owned (so no wild picnics, sorry!), but for centuries it has been inhabited and loved by those who wanted to leave their mark.

The great Gabriele Rosa, an explorer and curious about ancient things, was fascinated by the remains he found here: “ruins of walls and two small square towers”—in short, the vestiges of ancient fortifications that speak of a time when one had to protect oneself from the odd overly curious invader.

At the end of the 15th century, the island’s history took a religious turn: it passed into the hands of the Sisters of Saint Clare, members of the monastery of Brescia, who decided to build a convent. Imagine the nuns who would gaze out over the water every day, probably longing for a stronger coffee or at least a better view—well, that’s still there!

But the real transformation took place in 1910, when the knight Vincenzo Richieri decided to build a veritable neo-Gothic castle, complete with turrets and a dreamlike park filled with conifers—perfect for regal strolls and hiding out from nosy squirrels. There’s even a small marina, the perfect landing place for those arriving by boat, and from there you can ascend to the villa, elegant with its rectangular layout and two stories. The villa is a true feast for the eyes: turret, battlements, pale stone walls, and a spectacular vantage point on a cliff that plunges sheer into the lake. In short, if this place were a character, it would be a mysterious aristocratic residence with a Gothic touch and an incredible view of the lake.

And now we continue towards the village of Carzano! Before entering the town, you can also take a break at the town’s equipped beach (here’s the link to get there; you’ll find it on your left before reaching the town).

Our walk will be finished there but I still have something for you: my food tips!

You’ll find everything in the next section!

Typical dishes and where to eat them

One of my favorite sections in my digital guides! Monte Isola’s typical dishes are born from authentic, historic recipes, passed down with the same affection of a grandmother who makes you taste each dish three times.

The queen of Brescian cuisine, it’s made with yellow cornmeal simmered in salted water, stirring gently until it reaches a creamy consistency. Served soft or firm, it’s the perfect side dish for lake fish, meats, and cheeses.

As a child, my typical Sunday lunch on Monte Isola was polenta accompanied by rabbit, slowly cooked with a little white wine, onion, and rosemary. It makes me emotional to think how good my grandmother was at cooking it! 🥲

 

Lake fish processed using an age-old technique: salting, sun-drying on racks, and preserving in oil.

With an intense and unmistakable flavor, they’re best enjoyed with polenta.

Another typical dish of this island. Small bites of spicy salami dough often served with polenta! Not very light but definitely tasty and worth trying! 

A prized fish from Lake Iseo, with delicate, white flesh, excellent grilled or baked.

Tender, flavorful fillets, often served fried or sautéed with butter and sage.

Small lake fish, usually fried and served as a tasty appetizer.

Fresh and aged cheeses, ideal enjoyed with honey or local mustards. Personally I love every type of “Formaggella” and the “Casolet”!

Sparkling and still wines that enhance the flavors of local cuisine, perfect for toasting with a lake view.

Where to eat all these delicacies?

Lot of places that I personally like. Here a few that you must try!

What can I say about this place? One of my all-time favorites!

It’s impossible to resist their charcuterie and cheese platter, accompanied by focaccia and a generous glass of Spritz. Traditional products made with high-quality ingredients, sourced from small artisanal farms, will allow you to savor the delicacies of local cuisine.

Click here to get there.

PS: I’ll give you another picture because it’s so good!

 

Another great place for local food! Located in Peschiera (click here to get there) you will be able to enjoy some amazing fish sitting 2 meters far from the lake!

If you are in Carzano, this is your best option to try some local food!

You will love the location, really close to the lake (click here to get there)!

Trattoria above the village with a breathtaking lake view and great service!

Really outstanding typical local food with generous portions. The appetizer is also great! (click here to get there)

Want to enjoy an aperitif with a spectacular view or a sandwich in Siviano!

Here is the perfect place! (Click here to get there)

Local with spectacular views of the lake.

In good weather you can even eat outside under the olive trees. Great option if you are craving pizza and are in Siviano (click here to get there).

The end?

Unfortunately, we have finished our tour! However, there are several things around Monte Isola!

Brescia

A fantastic city full of stories and curiosities! If you enjoyed this guide you can also purchase the digital guide to Brescia directly at this link: click here. 

Torbiere del Sebino Nature Reserve.

This is a natural environment rich in plants and animals that was created where peat was once mined. The park is located near Lake Iseo. You can choose from several trails, but the footbridge across the marshes is truly spectacular!

However, I do not recommend visiting in the rain unless you like walking in the mud 😬!

The “Flavor Train”

A tourist train that runs all along Lake Iseo with beautiful views of villages and natural landscapes.

Along the way, you will also taste typical local products. Super !

Bergamo

My hometown! In this city I run also a free walking tour activity that you can book to explore the area with me! Click here to know more!

cover bergamo

Franciacorta

Wine tasting at one of the many wineries in Franciacorta!

These are just some of the activities to do but this area is really full of activities! If you want to know more, feel free to write me on WhatsApp by clicking here! However, we are really done now!

All good things must come to an end😬!

First of all, if you enjoyed the tour will be really important for me to have a review on these platforms (also on the platform where you booked, but these platforms that you find below are fundamental).

You can leave a review (no pressure on you for this⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) by clicking on these beautiful buttons!

What about a review on Google 🤩? Just click on the logo!

Click on the logo and leave a review on Truspilot 🤩 

I know that it takes time (actually 4 seconds 😬) but for me this part is really important in order to continue this activity 🥰!

If, on the other hand, you had problems, have suggestions on how to improve it, or want to contact me, feel free to write me on WhatsApp by clicking here!

Are you going to visit other cities?

I have prepared different digital guides to enable you to other cities as well. All guides were written in collaboration with locals so that the most authentic stories and advice could be included!

In these digital guides you will find:

  • Itinerary with the highlights of the city (connected with google maps) 📍
  • Historical info, curiosities and funny facts 🤓
  • FOOD TIPS from locals ! Every city has it’s own typical dishes so it’s super important to know about them 😬 Also, thanks to my local friends, you will discover real local restaurants to try them 😋!

I already prepared a special discount for you, you’ll find everything by clicking here!

Again, if need some support or need any extra info, feel free to write me on WhatsApp by clicking here!

Greetings from your Walking Cap!

Matteo