How to use the guide?
It’s really easy!
The itinerary I have created is set up so that you have a practical route to explore the city! Before each attraction you will find buttons like the one below 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
Just press over the button and you will be guided with google maps to the next point! Once you reach your destination you can come back to this guide and read or listen to all the information and trivia!
In the next paragraph I will also leave you with a map of the entire route but you won’t need it to explore the city!
If you want to see a demo of how to use the guide, click on the button below 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
Welcome to Naples! It is really difficult to describe the uniqueness of this place: history, monuments, food, culture: everything I found in this place during my visits left me with super positive feelings!
Usually in my digital guides I always try to create a one-day itinerary: in Naples, however, this is impossible! For this reason I’ll give you 2 different options:
- A one day itinerary with the highlights of the city (5 km walking, 4 to 5 hours)
- A “second day” itinerary if you are going to have more time
The tour!
Map Preview & How to use it
Let me show you the preview of our route! By scrolling the guide you will find buttons to click that will always take you to the next attraction/monument (so this map is just to give you an idea about the itinerary, no need to use it now
)!
The yellow markers are the monuments and attractions we will see on the first day!
The brown markers are some extras not included in our tour but which you can visit if you have time left and/or if you have a second day in Napoli!
The red indicators, on the other hand, are some of my favorite restaurants (I tell you more about them at the end)!
I would say we are ready to get started!
Introduction & History of the city
Naples, the heart of Southern Italy, is a city that pulses with passion, history and undeniable charm.
Nestled between the sparkling waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the imposing silhouette of Mount Vesuvius, Naples offers an extraordinary blend of art, culture and cuisine that captivates every traveler.
Before we start talking about the monuments and beauties of the city, let’s do a little more in-depth analysis of its history!
Historical Background: History of Naples
Naples is a city that seems to have come out of a novel: lively, chaotic, full of history and with a unique soul. Founded by the Greeks in the distant 8th century BC, it was called Parthenope, in honor of a mythological siren. A few centuries later, when the city expanded, it became Neapolis, or “new city”. And since then it has never stopped surprising the world.
The Romans and Vesuvius
During the Roman Empire, Naples was already the place where everyone wanted to be. It was famous for the Greek culture it had preserved and for the luxurious villas of the rich patricians. But then Vesuvius, in 79 AD, decided to steal the show with a devastating eruption that buried Pompeii and Herculaneum. Naples, however, came out unscathed and continued to grow.
Middle Ages and Renaissance: Times of Glory
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the city changed hands several times: from the Byzantines to the Lombards, until it became part of the Kingdom of Naples. It was during this period that some of the city’s symbols were born, such as the Maschio Angioino and the Cathedral of Naples. With the Aragonese in power, Naples was filled with art, culture and buildings that still leave you speechless today.
The Bourbons and the maximum splendor
When the Bourbons arrived in the 18th century, Naples became one of the most beautiful capitals in Europe. Think of the Teatro di San Carlo, the oldest opera house in the world still in operation, or the majestic Royal Palace of Caserta, built to compete with Versailles. The city was a real star of the time!
The Risorgimento and the change
In 1860, Garibaldi and his Thousand arrived in Naples and put an end to the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. The city became part of the Kingdom of Italy, but the transition was not easy: Naples had to adapt to changes and face new challenges.
From the twentieth century to today
During the Second World War, Naples was hit hard by bombings. But the Neapolitans never gave up: with the Four Days of Naples they chased the Nazis out of the city, demonstrating once again their courage. In the post-war period, through ups and downs, Naples continued to shine with its culture, music, food (we’ll talk about it later, don’t worry) and, above all, its unique spirit.
Today Naples is an incredible mix of history and modernity, where every corner has a story to tell. It is impossible not to fall in love with this city, which can be elegant and popular, ancient and modern, and always full of life.
Origins of the name
The name of Naples has roots that sink into legend and history, like everything in this magical city. It is said that it all began with a siren: Partenope . According to the myth, Partenope threw herself into the sea after her singing failed to conquer Ulysses. The waves carried her body to the shores where Naples stands today, and the first inhabitants decided to give it the name in her honor.
But if we leave aside the legends (even if it is difficult, because they are too beautiful), there is also a more historical explanation. When the Greeks founded this city, they called it Parthenope, but then, with time and the expansion of the town, they began to call it Neapolis , that is “new city”, to distinguish it from the old settlement.
So, in a certain sense, Naples has always had a name that speaks of rebirth and transformation. And that’s exactly what it does: it changes, it evolves, but it always remains itself. A city that never forgets where it comes from, but always looks forward!
And now we begin our tour starting from the beautiful Cathedral of Naples!
A. Naples Cathedral
The Naples Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is one of those places that you absolutely must see to truly understand the soul of the city. It is not just a church: it is a symbol of history, faith and popular traditions, all seasoned with the unique charm of Naples.
A bit of history
Its construction began in the 13th century, at the behest of Charles II of Anjou, and it took more than a hundred years to complete. As often happens with monuments, it was never truly “finished”, because over the centuries it was expanded, modified and restored several times. The result? An incredible mix of styles that tell the long history of the city.
The outside
When you arrive in front of the Duomo, the first thing you notice is its neo-Gothic facade (a 19th-century addition), with towers and sculpted details that seem to have come out of a storybook. It is majestic and at the same time welcoming, with those pale hues that shine in the Neapolitan sun.
The interior
Once inside, prepare to be amazed. The interior is a triumph of marble, frescoes and works of art that make you feel small in front of so much beauty. Stand out:
The Chapel of San Gennaro, dedicated to the patron saint of the city, with breathtaking frescoes and the altar where the relics of the saint are kept. It is here that the famous miracle of the blood takes place three times a year (I will tell you about it shortly). A curiosity about the beautiful fresco: painted by Giovanni Lanfranco, it represents Paradise. It is said that the painting shows a multitude of faces as the agreement that Lanfranco signed with the client provided for a fee for each head painted!
The coffered ceiling of the main nave, decorated with 17th-century paintings, is certainly another marvel not to be missed.
Works to see
Among the most important works are the medieval mosaics in the Basilica of Santa Restituta and the silver bust of San Gennaro, one of the most venerated icons by Neapolitans. Every corner of the Duomo tells a story, so it is worth taking the time to explore it.
Ah, the legend of the blood of San Gennaro! It is one of those stories that everyone in Naples knows and that mixes faith, mystery and a pinch of magic. I will explain it to you in simple words.
San Gennaro, who is the patron saint of Naples, lived in the 3rd century and became a martyr for his faith. The most famous legend about him is that of his blood, which is kept in a shrine in the Cathedral of Naples.
Now, the curious thing is this: the blood is coagulated, dry, as you would expect from something centuries old. But, three times a year, a small “miracle” happens: during a solemn celebration, the blood liquefies. It melts before everyone’s eyes!
Neapolitans care a lot about this event because they see it as a sign of protection and good luck for the city. If the blood melts, everything is fine. But if it doesn’t… well, then it’s a bad omen! They say that in the past, when it didn’t melt, terrible things happened, like epidemics or natural disasters. Coincidences? Maybe, but the charm remains.
In fact, no one can scientifically explain how the blood melts and solidifies again every time. Some think it is a chemical reaction due to the temperature or the movement of the case, but for the devotees there is no explanation: it is the power of the saint, period!
In short, believe it or not, it is an event that keeps everyone in suspense. And, let’s face it, it is also a beautiful moment of unity for the city. If you ever go to Naples, try to attend: the faith, the crowd, and that wait… it is pure Neapolitan magic!
In the last pillar of the left nave there is an iron bar which has no structural function. It is in fact the “ passus ferreus ” or Neapolitan “terra step”, an instrument used in ancient times as a unit of measurement.
The metric system was in fact invented and adopted in 1791 and before that time there were many different units of measurement. Since Roman times, to avoid fraud, the main units of measurement were kept in sacred places.
It is important to note that this listel is the only survivor of many other measuring lists present in the main churches of Byzantine cities. It was initially located in the apse of the Basilica Stefania, but was later moved to its current location after the construction of the Duomo. Curious!
We continue our walk until we reach a street that literally divides the city: Spaccanapoli.
B. Spaccanapoli
In the heart of the historic center of Naples winds one of the most emblematic arteries of the city: Benedetto Croce Street, one of the seven sections that form the famous Spaccanapoli.
Located in the heart of the historic center of Naples, Spaccanapoli is a segment of the lower decumanus that winds for about a kilometer, a route that dates back to the era of Magna Graecia. Although its name is not official, “Spaccanapoli” is the popular expression that indicates a series of aligned streets, perfectly visible as a clean cut in the urban fabric, especially when observed from the Belvedere di San Martino. In fact, it can be said that it “perfectly divides the city of Naples in two”.
Spaccanapoli is famous because it represents the authentic and historical soul of Naples, a place where you can breathe the history, culture and most deep-rooted traditions of the city.
Its current name was given in 1954 in homage to the famous Neapolitan philosopher Benedetto Croce, who lived here permanently until his death in 1952.
Right inside the Palazzo Filomarino della Rocca, where Croce had his home, today the Italian Institute for Historical Studies, founded by the philosopher himself, is located. The building, overlooking this historic street, is still a point of reference for humanistic research and culture.
This street is not just an urban route, but a real journey into the history of the city. In addition to having received the title of “Neapolitan street of cultures”, it has been the subject of in-depth studies on the heraldry of the buildings that overlook it, each of which tells a part of ancient and noble Naples.
Before bearing the name of the philosopher, the street was known for centuries as Nido Street, and later as Major Trinity Street, in reference to the church that dominates Gesù Nuovo Square, today known as the Church of Gesù Nuovo. For a short period it was also named after Mariano Semmola, a senator of the Kingdom and a prominent figure of the time, later buried in the Monumental Cemetery of Poggioreale.
Along Benedetto Croce Street you can still see architectural elements dating back to the Angevin era: remains of ogival windows now walled up, sections of ancient paving, and the layout of the street itself, designed for the transit of carriages.
The next attraction is very famous but takes about 90 minutes to visit! If you only have one day (unfortunately), you will probably have to skip it. However, I will leave you a paragraph below and directions for “Napoli Sotterranea” (Underground Naples).
PS: if you have more days, you will find this same paragraph in the itinerary for day 2, which you will find in the second part of the guide.
PPS: The visit takes place only accompanied by qualified guides and lasts 90 minutes. You can book it (even for another day) by clicking here!
Underground Naples
If you think Naples is only amazing on the surface, prepare to change your mind. Beneath the streets, alleys and squares lies an ancient and intricate world: Napoli Sotterranea. This journey takes you not only 40 meters underground, but also back in time, to prehistory.
An underground that tells the story
The subsoil of Naples is a living testimony to the long history of the city. It starts even in prehistoric times, but it is in the 3rd century BC that everything takes shape thanks to the Greeks. They were the ones who dug the first tuff quarries to build the walls and temples of their “Neapolis”.
In Roman times, the underground became an extraordinary feat of engineering. During the Augustan age, the Romans built complex aqueducts that brought water from distant sources, such as the springs of the Serino, a good 70 km away. The tunnels, narrow enough for a man to pass through, supplied fountains, homes and even the Piscina Mirabilis , the gigantic water reserve of the Roman fleet at Miseno.
Engineers of the time used cutting-edge techniques, such as hydraulic plaster to waterproof the tunnels, some of which still show traces of this ingenuity today.
From the Renaissance to the Second World War
As the city expanded in the 16th century, the ancient Greco-Roman aqueduct was no longer sufficient. It was the Neapolitan nobleman Cesare Carmignano who built a new water system to meet the growing demand for water.
But the underground was not only a functional resource. During the Second World War, these tunnels became air raid shelters to protect Neapolitans from bombings. The cisterns were illuminated and adapted to accommodate dozens of people. Even today, graffiti, remains of furniture and objects tell of the terror and resilience of those who found shelter there.
The visit takes place only accompanied by qualified guides and lasts about a little more than an hour. I leave you below the references to book (highly recommended in high season!)
Let’s continue our tour to another wonder of Naples!
C. San Gregorio Armeno Street
A street where time seems to have stopped… in December! Here, every day of the year, it is like being catapulted into the magic of the holidays, with artisan workshops that produce handmade nativity scenes and shepherds.
What makes San Gregorio Armeno special?
This narrow and lively street is famous for its master nativity scene makers, artisans who have been passing down the art of creating nativity scenes for generations. We are not just talking about the classic Nativity, but a universe made up of little houses, shepherds, streams, wood-fired ovens, markets, and even famous people! Yes, because here, next to Mary, Joseph, and the Baby Jesus, you could find Maradona, Pulcinella, or even the latest celebrity of the moment.
Each workshop has its own style and character: from traditional terracotta shepherds, sculpted and painted by hand, to the most bizarre and modern pieces. It is an explosion of colors, lights and details that captures young and old.
The Origins: From the Greeks to Neapolitan Christmas
San Gregorio Armeno was not born with the nativity scene: its roots date back to the Greco-Roman era, when there was a temple dedicated to Ceres, the goddess of fertility. The ancients offered votive statuettes, a custom that over time has transformed into the tradition of the nativity scene.
But it was in the eighteenth century, during the Neapolitan Baroque period, that the nativity scene became the scenographic spectacle we know today. Thanks to noble families and the best craftsmen, the nativity scene was enriched with incredible details: taverns, markets, rivers with real water and even lights!
The characters of the nativity scene and some legends
The Shepherd without Gifts
There is only one character who goes to visit the Madonna without any gift and, in Naples, they call him the “shepherd of Wonder”. He looks astonished, his mouth slightly open as if to express his uncontrollable emotion for what he sees. Legend has it that this man is harshly reprimanded by the other shepherds for not having brought anything to the Madonna who, however, amidst general amazement, will have sweet words for him: “The world will be wonderful as long as there are people like you who are able to marvel”.
Stephanie
According to an apocryphal Gospel, only married women or those with children could visit the Madonna. Stephanie was a widow with no children, so, wanting to visit the Madonna who was her friend, she decided to wrap a stone whose shape resembled that of a newborn. When the Madonna saw her, she was moved, announcing that her pain would soon end: that’s how the stone sneezed and transformed into a child. His name, according to legend, was Stefano.
Benino
It is a shepherd asleep on the highest hill of every Neapolitan nativity scene. According to legend, the shepherd dreams of a large and magnificent nativity scene in which he himself is present with twelve very white sheep around him. And woe betide anyone who wakes him! According to legend, the nativity scene would suddenly disappear!
The Magi
In tradition they ride horses of different colors: white like the rising sun, reddish like the setting sun and black like the night. They symbolize the journey of the star which, like the Magi, begins its journey in the East. After the night the three arrive in the presence of Christ who represents the rising Sun
The washerwomen
They represent the midwives who rush to help the virgin. They spread out white cloths that represent Mary’s virginity.
The Neapolitan language is much more than a simple dialect: it is a true cultural heritage, rich in history, unique expressions and linguistic influences that make it one of the most fascinating languages in the world.
Neapolitan has its roots in Vulgar Latin, enriched by Greek, Spanish, French and Arabic influences, due to the various dominations suffered by the Kingdom of Naples over the centuries. This mixture of languages has given rise to a varied and colorful lexicon, which still characterizes the speech of the region today.
Contrary to popular belief, Neapolitan is not a dialect of Italian, but a language in its own right, recognized by UNESCO as a protected language. Furthermore, the Atlas of World Languages lists it among the Romance languages with its own grammar and syntax. There are several ancient texts written directly in Neapolitan and not in Italian.
Furthermore, the Neapolitan language has been a protagonist in the theater, thanks to playwrights such as Eduardo De Filippo, who brought it to the national and international scene. Likewise, Neapolitan music has made the language famous throughout the world, with songs such as ‘O Sole Mio , Torna a Surriento and Funiculì Funiculà , songs reinterpreted by world-famous artists.
The second most spoken language in Italy, after Italian, is Neapolitan in terms of diffusion and number of speakers. According to some studies, over 5 million people speak it regularly.
Let’s continue our tour!
D. San Severo Chapel and the “Veiled Christ”
In the heart of the historic center of Naples is one of the most evocative and mysterious places in the city: the Sansevero Chapel. Also known as “Santa Maria della Pietà” or affectionately called “la Pietatella ” because of its original name, this chapel houses one of the most extraordinary masterpieces of Baroque art: the Veiled Christ.
Although the chapel dates back to the early seventeenth century, its current form is almost entirely due to the intervention of the Prince of Sansevero, Raimondo di Sangro, who oversaw its radical renovation between the 1740s and 1750s. In this context, one of the most celebrated sculptural works in the world came to life: the Veiled Christ, created in 1753 by Giuseppe Sanmartino.
The work depicts the body of Christ laid down, stretched out on a marble mattress and wrapped in a veil carved from the same block of stone. This veil is very light and transparent.
The famous sculptor Antonio Canova, deeply impressed by the sculpture, declared that he would have given ten years of his life to be its author. It also seems that he tried, in vain, to buy the work during a visit to Naples.
The original floor of the chapel, lost at the end of the nineteenth century due to water infiltration, featured a labyrinthine design that symbolized the initiatory path towards knowledge.
Along the walls are ten allegorical statues depicting the Virtues, each representing a stage of man’s inner journey towards enlightenment. Among these, two particularly significant sculptures stand out: Modesty and Disillusionment.
Modesty, sculpted by Antonio Corradini in 1752, is dedicated to the prince’s mother, Cecilia Gaetani, who died prematurely. The female figure is wrapped in a transparent veil and placed next to symbols such as a garland of roses, the tree of life and the broken tombstone, elements that allude to early death and veiled wisdom, in reference to the goddess Isis. Corradini died the very year of its creation, leaving the project of the Veiled Christ unfinished, which was then entrusted to Sanmartino.
Disillusionment, by Francesco Queirolo, is instead a tribute to Raimondo’s father, Antonio di Sangro. The sculpture depicts a man freeing himself from a net, a symbol of sin and worldly illusions, with the help of a little angel pointing to a globe and a Bible. The technical finesse of the net, sculpted in marble with incredible skill, is one of the most surprising elements of the entire chapel. I remember that on my first visit I was truly amazed by the realism of this net (a part of me still believes that it cannot be real marble because it is truly too incredible)!
In the crypt of the chapel, two of the most enigmatic objects linked to the Prince of Sansevero are exhibited: the so-called Anatomical Machines. These are the skeletal remains of a man and a woman, complete with a very detailed circulatory system. These creations were made by the doctor Giuseppe Salerno, commissioned by the prince, and represent an incredible example of eighteenth-century artistic anatomy.
The bodies are authentic, but the arteries and veins are the result of work with materials such as wax, metal wires and silk. Despite this, for a long time the legend spread that Raimondo di Sangro would have transformed blood into metal through mysterious alchemical substances.
Their function was probably didactic, but even in this case the intent to amaze and astonish was central.
The figure of Raimondo di Sangro, known for his fame as an alchemist and tireless experimenter, has given rise to a series of legends that still circulate about him today. One of the most persistent concerns the famous veil of the Veiled Christ, sculpted by Giuseppe Sanmartino: for over 250 years, visitors, tourists and even some scholars, struck by the incredible transparency of the shroud, have hypothesized – erroneously – that it was the result of an alchemical process, through which the Prince of Sansevero would have “marbled” a real fabric.
In fact, the entire sculpture, including the veil, is made of marble from a single block of stone. The total cost of the statue came to five hundred ducats, a significant sum for the time.
All visits to the Museum must be booked in advance. Here is the site where you can buy your tickets online.
The full-fare ticket costs €12 although there are several discounts so I recommend you take a look at the link I included.
The site is open every day except Tuesday from 9am to 7pm.
Let’s go back to Via Benedetto Croce (part of Spaccanapoli) to head to the next attraction. On the way, we’ll pass by the Monumental Complex of Santa Chiara: it takes about an hour to visit the monastery and the beautiful cloister! If you only have one day and don’t want to rush, unfortunately you’ll have to skip it.
If, on the other hand, you want to go inside, here is some more information (which you will also find in the itinerary for the second day, which follows this first part).
Monumental Complex of Saint Clare
Located in the heart of the historic center, the complex represents one of the most important artistic testimonies of Neapolitan heritage.
In addition to the famous Gothic basilica, the complex includes convent rooms, a museum dedicated to the Franciscan Work, an archaeological area with remains of Roman baths, a large bell tower and the Majolica Cloister.
The construction of the complex began in 1310, at the behest of King Robert of Anjou and Queen Sancia of Majorca. In addition to religious devotion, the sovereigns wanted to create a dynastic tomb of great prestige. The works, entrusted to Gagliardo Primario and Leonardo di Vito, were inspired by the Provençal Gothic style and led to the creation of a majestic basilica with a single nave, with ten side chapels and a façade dominated by a perforated rose window.
According to historical sources, it was Robert of Anjou himself who wanted Giotto to decorate the basilica with paintings, following Boccaccio’s suggestion. The frescoes narrated episodes from the life of the Virgin, Saint Francis and Saint Clare. Unfortunately, in the 17th century, many of these works were covered by Baroque stucco, and today only faint traces remain visible in some areas of the convent, accessible only through special guided tours.
On August 4, 1943, a devastating bombing raid hit Saint Clare, destroying much of the basilica and the baroque interventions carried out in the following period. However, the Maiolicato Cloister was miraculously spared. After the war, the architect Mario Zampino directed the restoration, restoring the original Gothic appearance of the basilica, although with the loss of the baroque decorations that had embellished the building for centuries.
The monastery also represents a singular case for its time: it was one of the first religious complexes to simultaneously host a male and a female order, the friars and the Poor Clares, thanks to a papal authorization granted in 1312 by Clement V.
The Cloister
The Cloister, designed by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro between 1739 and 1742, at the request of the abbess Ippolita di Carmignano, is a unique decorative masterpiece of its kind.
Characterized by 64 octagonal pillars decorated with colored majolica, the cloister is crossed by two avenues that divide it into four sections. The majolica seats depict scenes of rural life, myths and popular moments, with a single image inspired by monastic life: a nun feeding some kittens.
All around, a 17th-century frescoed portico frames the lively tiles, creating a visual harmony that invites reflection and contemplation.
Standing before the lively decorations of the Cloister of Santa Chiara, it is natural to ask: “How is it possible that a cloistered convent is so full of color and joy?” The answer is deeper than it seems. For the Poor Clares, who spent their entire lives within those walls, the cloister was a symbolic window on the world, a small Eden that reflected the beauty of Creation and offered spiritual comfort. Those serene landscapes, the animals, the flowers painted on the majolica tiles, represented a visual and mental refuge, a place to find inner harmony.
Maria Amalia of Saxony, wife of King Charles of Bourbon, also gave life to this explosion of colors. A woman of refined taste, she wanted to modernize the environment, perhaps intuiting – well in advance – the psychological power of colors. So she requested sunny shades such as yellow, blue and light blue, capable of lifting the spirits and fighting the melancholy that could strike young women forced into monastic life.
The Riggiole
Majolica, called “riggiole” in Neapolitan dialect, were not simple decorative tiles. Each square represented a fragment of life, a pastoral scene, an animal, an auspicious symbol. In an era in which images spoke louder than words, riggiole were visual messages that conveyed serenity, joy and even spiritual protection.
In fact, it was believed that the bright colors could ward off evil spirits and the evil eye. In short, an artistic talisman to protect the monastic community.
In a corner of the cloister there is a tender and curious scene: a nun feeding the convent cats. More than a simple decoration, it is a window into everyday life. In fact, cats were precious allies against mice, but also affectionate companions for the nuns, silent confidants with whom – it is said – they had long “conversations”.
Curiosity
Even though they were devoted to prayer, the life of cloistered nuns was not always as rigid as we might imagine. Many girls did not enter by vocation, but because they were forced by noble families: a choice that guaranteed social prestige, salvation of the soul and a nice saving on the dowry!
It is not surprising then that, behind the convent’s grates, small acts of daily rebellion were hidden. Some nuns managed to communicate with the outside through the parlor, exchanging not only words but also sweets, letters or fresh news.
The convent archives report curious episodes, some truly surprising. In a particularly snowy winter, some nuns transformed the snowy courtyard into an improvised sledding track, using water buckets as sleds. On other occasions, they entertained themselves with invented card games, as long as they maintained absolute silence so as not to attract the attention of the superiors.
There were also far more serious episodes, real scandals that made all of Naples talk. It is said that nuns, taking advantage of the gardens and the poor night surveillance, organized secret meetings with nobles of the city. A 17th century chronicle tells of a Poor Clare who managed to meet her lover in the cloister with the help of an accommodating concierge. When the meeting was discovered, a scandal broke out that also involved the aristocratic families, protectors of the nuns involved.
Among the most unusual episodes, there is a story of a clandestine party during Carnival, organized inside the cloister. The nuns, dressed up in costumes sent by relatives, even invited masked guests from outside. The joy was however crushed by a surprise check by the superiors, who put an end to the celebrations amid indignation and stifled laughter.
Some of the more daring nuns even managed to procure perfumes, small jewels or delicious foods, often with the collaboration of suppliers.
Let’s keep walking until we reach a very characteristic market!
E. Pignasecca Market
A few meters from Via Toledo is the oldest market in the city, dating back to the 16th century.
The etymology of the name ” Pignasecca ” literally refers to a “dry pine cone”, or a dried-up pine tree. According to one of the most accredited theories dating back to the 16th century, the area where the market stands today was not very urbanized and full of vegetable gardens.
When new roads were built, including the future Via Toledo, many lands were leveled, leaving a single tree intact: a large pine. Over time, this tree died, drying out, but remained as a point of reference for the population, who began to call the entire area by that evocative name.
It is said that that solitary pine tree had become home to numerous magpies, attracted by the food and shiny objects of passers-by.
These birds, it seems, were so invasive and predatory that they induced the inhabitants to turn to the religious authorities. The archbishop of the time, exasperated, is said to have even excommunicated the magpies, affixing the written condemnation to the trunk of the offending tree.
The pine, it seems, dried up shortly after, as if it too had been struck by excommunication. And as if that were not enough, legend has it that the ecclesiastic’s extreme gesture was provoked by the most sensational theft: his own ring, stolen by a magpie while he was resting… in the company of the housekeeper.
Among its stalls you can find everything: fresh fish, fruit, vegetables, typical sweets and clothing. Here you can find various specialties of Neapolitan street food such as the classic “ cuoppo fritto”, the “pizza a portafoglio” or tripe.
Let’s continue walking towards our next stop: it’s a really beautiful Metro station!
F. Toledo Station
The Toledo station, part of Line 1 of the Naples Metro, is considered one of the most beautiful stops in the world, thanks to its extraordinary fusion of architecture, art and historical memory. Opened to the public in 2012, it was designed by the Spanish architect Oscar Tusquets Blanca and stands out for its aesthetics that intertwine modernity and profound references to the city of Naples. The name recalls the historic Toledo Street.
One of the most fascinating elements of the work is the “ crater de luz ”, a large circular opening that allows natural light to filter into the depths of the station. This architectural device not only illuminates the space in a scenographic way, but also helps create a feeling of openness and breathing space in a typically closed environment such as the subway.
Walking through its corridors, you will encounter contemporary art installations created by internationally renowned artists. Among these, the “Light Panels” by Robert Wilson stand out, which transform the underground passages into a suggestive luminous gallery.
Along the walls there are also works by William Kentridge, with black and white representations of Neapolitan daily life, interpreted through a poetic and intense visual language.
During the excavation works, historical finds of great value were brought to light, including sections of ancient Greek walls dating back to the 4th century BC, built to defend ancient Neapolis. Remains of Roman cisterns also emerged, evidence of the advanced hydraulic engineering of the time.
One of the most fascinating discoveries is a segment of the ancient Roman road, part of the main decumanus, perfectly preserved under the station.
We’re ready to dive into one of the most picturesque areas of the city! I’m talking about the Spanish Quarter! We use the famous Maradona mural as a reference point, but feel free to wander around these streets (just watch out for tourist traps!).
G. Spanish Quarters
For a long time, the Spanish Quarters have carried with them a controversial reputation, often associated with crime and danger. Today, however, this historic area has become one of the most fascinating destinations for those who want to discover the most authentic soul of Naples.
Located close to the historic center, the Spanish Quarters were created in the 16th century to house the troops of the Spanish army during the period of domination. Despite the attempts of the viceroy Pedro de Toledo to curb phenomena such as prostitution and crime with targeted laws, the neighborhood ended up gaining a bad reputation.
Over time, its reputation became so entrenched that, during the Second World War, even American soldiers would frequent it in search of “fun.” An ancient and difficult to erase reputation, which however does not tell the whole truth. Indeed: it is said that many elements today attributed to the “most folkloristic Neapolitanness”, such as the colorful language or the art of making do, were brought by the Spanish.
Here lived – and still live – legendary figures such as the “femminielli”, witnesses of a popular culture that was able to welcome and normalize what elsewhere was (and is) marginalized. True icons of queer Naples, they were unwitting protagonists of the first LGBT movements in southern Italy, long before they were formalized in modern terms.
In these streets you can still hear the sounds of the “tammorre” and the neomelodic music that echoes from the balconies, and you can recognize glimpses familiar to those who have seen at least once a film set among these buildings: the Spanish Quarters have often been a film set to tell a true, raw, deep Naples. In fact, some scenes from the 1976 film “Napoli Violenta” or the television series “Gomorra” were filmed right here.
In the streets of the Spanish Quarters, several murals are visible that were part of urban redevelopment projects, created to restore dignity and color to the alleys. Art was chosen as a means to tell the story of the neighborhood and enhance its hidden beauty.
Many murals depict iconic characters of Neapolitan culture:
- Totò, with his unmistakable ironic and melancholic face.
- Diego Armando Maradona , footballer who has become almost a popular deity, especially after the victory of the scudetto in ’86.
- Pino Daniele , symbol of Neapolitan music who sang the soul of the people.
Hidden among the narrow streets of the Spanish Quarter is a small sanctuary frequented by women seeking a miracle: the Church of Santa Maria Francesca.
Inside the Saint’s house there is a miraculous chair, on which women sit to ask for the grace of having a child. Between votive offerings and prayers, the place mixes faith, devotion and hope, making it a destination for continuous pilgrimages.
We move on to another symbol of the city: Piazza Plebiscito! But to get there, I also want to show you Galleria Umberto I.
H. Umberto I Gallery
Thanks to its strategic position, it immediately became a meeting point for everyone: nobles, bourgeois, merchants… and the curious. A true beating heart of the social and commercial life of the city. Its structure is spectacular: four covered arms that intersect to form a cross, surmounted by an enormous iron and glass dome. A perfect mix of Art Nouveau style and neo-Renaissance touches , designed by the engineer Emanuele Rocco. The extraordinary iron and glass covering is instead the work of Paolo Boubée , who has harmoniously combined elegance and modernity. 
The main entrance, on San Carlo Street, is a small masterpiece: a curvilinear façade with arches decorated with allegories of the seasons – Winter, Spring, Summer and Autumn – and figures representing Work, Science, Commerce and Industry. A true tribute to the dynamism of man and the rhythm of nature. But that’s not all! On the sides you can also find representations of the four continents – Europe, Asia, Africa and America – and symbols of progress such as the Telegraph, Steam and Abundance. Without forgetting the classical deities (Jupiter, Venus, Diana, Mercury…) that decorate the ceiling of the portico, as if they wanted to bless passers-by. The highlight? The octagonal dome in the center of the Gallery. A marvel of glass and iron under which extends a beautiful circular mosaic, made in 1952 after the original was destroyed during the Second World War. The mosaic depicts the signs of the zodiac and the winds, in a symbolic reference to the cycle of the seasons and the connection between man, nature and the universe. 
Each season is represented by its three zodiac signs:- Spring : Aries, Taurus, Gemini
- Summer : Cancer, Leo, Virgo
- Autumn : Libra, Scorpio, Sagittarius
- Winter : Capricorn, Aquarius, Pisces
Now we move on to Piazza Plebiscito!
I. Plebiscito Square
Located in the beating heart of Naples, Plebiscito Square is considered one of the most representative symbols of the city. With over 25,000 square meters, it is the largest square in the Campania capital and one of the largest in Italy. Flanked by the Royal Palace on one side and the Basilica of San Francesco di Paola on the other, the square is framed by an elegant colonnade and surrounded by important historic buildings such as Salerno Palace and the Prefecture Palace.
The square is ideally divided into two areas: a semicircular one in front of the basilica, and the other, more rectangular, which extends to the Royal Palace. In the center stand two equestrian statues: one dedicated to Charles III of Bourbon and the other to his son Ferdinand I, sculpted by Antonio Canova and his student Antonio Calì.
The current square arose on the area where already in the 16th century there was a large clearing, the result of the urban transformations started by Don Pedro de Toledo. Only later, with the construction of the Royal Palace, was a real monumental space designed, entrusted to the architect Domenico Fontana. The current name dates back to 1860, when a plebiscite, or a vote of the people, sanctioned the union of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies to the Kingdom of Italy.
During the economic boom of the 1960s, the square was converted into a large parking lot. Only in 1994, on the occasion of the G7, was it returned to pedestrians and transformed into a completely pedestrian area.
One of the most curious stories tells of an alleged “curse”: it is said that no one has ever managed to walk in a straight line blindfolded from the Royal Palace to the two equestrian statues in the center of the square, due to a slight slope of the ground and the irregular shape of the square. According to a legend, Queen Margherita promised freedom to prisoners who passed the test, but it seems that no one ever succeeded. Some say that the sovereign cast a curse that still prevents people from succeeding in the feat today.
If you are with some friends I invite you to challenge each other because it is really fun! The last time I was in the city there were 5 of us trying and… let’s say that Queen Margherita would not have granted us freedom 😅.
The birth of Pizza !
Pizza was born in Naples as simple street food.
As early as the 17th and 18th centuries, Neapolitans were eating flatbreads topped with basic ingredients — cheap, filling, and perfect for eating on the go. The real turning point came when tomatoes arrived from the Americas in the 16th century. At first they were viewed with suspicion, but it didn’t take long before they became the star ingredient.
By the 19th century, pizzerias were already established in the city (the oldest still operating is Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, opened in 1830). Then comes the famous episode of 1889: pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito prepared a pizza with tomato, mozzarella and basil in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy. The colors matched the Italian flag, the name stuck — and the Margherita became a national symbol.
From humble street food to global icon, pizza has traveled far. But in Naples it remains wonderfully simple: a few ingredients, a wood-fired oven, and no rush. In 2017, the art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo was recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. And once you taste it here, you’ll understand why
There are several important monuments in the square! If you still have time and energy, you can visit them! I’ll leave the information below for you!
Royal Palace
The construction of the palace began in 1600, but it only took on its current appearance in 1858, the result of the intervention of numerous prominent architects such as Domenico Fontana, i, Gaetano Genovese and Francesco Antonio Picchiatti .
Over the centuries, it was the official residence of the Spanish viceroys, then of the Bourbons, for a short period of the French (with Joseph Bonaparte and Gioacchino Murat), and finally of the Savoys after the unification of Italy. In 1919, Vittorio Emanuele III ceded it to the Italian State; since then it has been home to a museum and the National Library.
The façade is 169 meters long and was built in pink bricks, piperno and volcanic stone and overlooks Plebiscito Square. Originally equipped with porticoes, it was later modified: the arches were walled up and transformed into niches where, starting from 1888, statues were placed depicting the main sovereigns of Neapolitan history, from Ruggero II to Vittorio Emanuele II, with works by artists such as Gemito, Solari, D’Orsi and Franceschi.
The entrance leads to the Courtyard of Honor, the only one built of the three planned in the original project. It is square in shape, with five arches on each side, the central one being wider than the others.
On the main floor is the famous Royal Apartment, used over the centuries as a residence and place of representation by various dynasties. After the annexation to the Kingdom of Italy, it was used as a public museum, open permanently since 1919. The interiors still retain their nineteenth-century layout, with furnishings, decorations and works of art that reflect the tastes of different eras.
This place is also called the Etiquette Apartment because it was intended for the official and ceremonial functions of the court. In practice, it was the space where formal meetings, receptions, public audiences took place, and where the sovereign received high-ranking guests, such as ambassadors, dignitaries or members of the aristocracy.
The rooms display paintings from the Farnese collection, the Neapolitan Caravaggio school, and from churches suppressed over time. Some Dutch portraits and other works were purchased at the behest of Ferdinand I. However, the palace does not have an organic collection, since many works were transferred over time to museums such as Capodimonte or the National Archaeological Museum.
The original furniture in Rococo and Baroque style is the work of Neapolitan craftsmen, while carpets, tapestries and decorative objects such as porcelain, clocks, bronzes and semiprecious stone works testify to the refinement of the era.
The garden of the Royal Palace is what remains of the original park of the Viceroyal Palace. It was redesigned in 1842 by the botanist Friedrich Dehnhardt, who took advantage of the free spaces left by the demolition of ancient structures.
It is an English garden, with sinuous flowerbeds and both Mediterranean and exotic plants. Each plant is identified by a tag with the planting date.
The perimeter of the garden is surrounded by a fence with golden tips.
Tickets & Schedule
The full-price ticket to visit the Royal Palace costs 15€, however there are many offers and cumulative tickets, for this reason I recommend you take a look at their website. Here is the link to buy tickets.
The Palace is open every day, except Wednesday, from 9am to 8pm.
Basilica of St. Francis of Paola
The Basilica was commissioned by Ferdinand I of Bourbon in 1817, as a gesture of thanks for the reconquest of the Kingdom of Naples after the Napoleonic period.
Originally, it was General Gioacchino Murat, during the French domination (1806–1815), who wanted the construction of the large semi-circular colonnade, closed by two symmetrical buildings. However, the project conceived to celebrate the aesthetics of the French Empire was transformed into a symbol of Bourbon power: Ferdinand decided to complete the colonnade by inserting a church dedicated to St. Francis of Paola in the center, inspired in its design by the Roman Pantheon.
The facade of the Basilica is preceded by six Ionic columns and surmounted by a pediment with three statues: St. Francis of Paola on the left, Saint Ferdinand of Castile on the right and, in the center, a personification of Religion. Two equestrian statues designed by Antonio Canova were later placed in the square, one depicting Ferdinand I and the other Charles III of Bourbon, founder of the Neapolitan dynasty.
The entire architectural complex, which includes the colonnade and the basilica, is considered one of the most representative examples of 19th-century Italian neoclassicism. The architect Pietro Bianchi, responsible for the basilica, reinterpreted the proportions of the Pantheon by inserting two smaller domes on the sides.
Inside, past the entrance hall, there are two side chapels: the one on the left is dedicated to the souls in Purgatory and contains works by Luca Giordano, Paolo De Matteis, Raffaele Postiglione and Giuseppe Bonito. The one on the right is dedicated to the Blessed Sacrament and houses a precious altar in polychrome marble from the 18th century, surmounted by a painting depicting Saint Francis of Paola, attributed to an artist from the circle of Jusepe de Ribera.
The central body of the church has a circular plan, with a diameter of 34 meters and a floor in polychrome marble with geometric designs. Around the hall rise 34 columns in Mondragone marble, 11 meters high, with Corinthian capitals decorated with the Bourbon lily.
The main altar was designed in 1751 by Ferdinando Fuga and made of porphyry, enriched with lapis lazuli and semiprecious stones, with columns in Egyptian breccia used as candelabra. Above it, a painting by Vincenzo Camuccini depicts Saint Francis of Paola resuscitating Alessandro, a young man who died suddenly.
Finally, the central dome, 53 meters high, is decorated internally with coffers, while the exterior is covered in Gaeta limestone. According to tradition, Ferdinand I wanted the dome not to exceed the height of the nearby Royal Palace, as a symbolic sign of the supremacy of the monarchic power over the ecclesiastical one, a subtle but powerful political statement carved in stone.
Tickets & Schedule
Entrance to the basilica is free. The basilica is open daily from 9am to 12pm and from 4pm to 7pm.
We are going to end our tour in a lovely place! Let’s walk towards the Castel dell’Ovo!
J. Castel dell'Ovo
Located in the heart of the Santa Lucia district, Castel dell’Ovo is the oldest fortress in Naples, built in the 12th century. It stands on the islet of Megaride, considered the first inhabited nucleus of the city, where according to legend the Greek colonists who founded Partenope landed.
The islet of Megaride has gone through various eras: in Roman times it was the site of the villa of General Lucius Licinius Lucullus, the Castrum Lucullanum , then it became a monastic settlement. The first nucleus of the castle was built in 1140 by Roger II the Norman, who transformed it into a defensive fortress.
Over the centuries, the structure was expanded and modified by important rulers: Frederick II of Swabia in the 13th century and Alfonso of Aragon in the 15th century. Under Spanish and Bourbon rule, drawbridges, artillery positions and new fortifications were added.
Although the interior is now bare, the castle is fascinating for its tuff structure and its large panoramic terraces, such as the Cannon Terrace, from which you can admire one of the best views of Naples, Vesuvius and the entire gulf.
Sala Italia is one of the most impressive rooms inside Castel dell’Ovo. Its main feature is the vaulted ceiling that, with its majesty, captures the attention of those who enter.
The castle towers were once used both as lookout points and as prisons.
The Norman Tower, dating back to the 12th century, is one of the oldest structures in the castle and offers an extraordinary panoramic view. The tower has been renovated over time, but still retains its defensive structure.
Two legends make Castel dell’Ovo even more fascinating:
- According to Greek myth, the siren Parthenope, attracted by the hero Ulysses, tried in vain to seduce him with her song. After being rejected, she let herself die of grief. Her body was carried by the waves to the islet of Megaride, where the castle stands today. Here she was buried and honored by the inhabitants, who called the first settlement founded by the Greeks “Parthenope”. Even today, the myth of Parthenope lives on in the symbols of the city, often represented as a protective siren, and her spirit hovers over the Gulf.
- The name of the castle comes from another famous legend, linked to the Latin poet Virgil, considered in ancient times not only a great author, but also a wise alchemist and magician. It is said that Virgil hid in the foundations of the castle a magic egg, with extraordinary power: it guarded the balance and stability of the entire fortress. If that egg had broken, the castle would have collapsed and a series of disasters would have struck Naples.
In the 14th century, during the reign of Joanna I of Anjou, part of the castle actually collapsed. The Neapolitans, in a panic, thought that the egg had broken. The queen was forced to reassure the population, swearing that the egg had been replaced and kept safe again. Today the egg has never been found, but the name “Castel dell’Ovo” has remained, to remember this story suspended between magic and superstition.
The interior of the castle is currently closed to the public.
Fountain of the Giant
The Giant’s Fountain (really close to Castel dell’Ovo, click here to get there), also known as the “Fontana dell’Immacolatella”, frames one of the most suggestive corners of Naples, offering a spectacular view of Partenope Street. Recently restored, the fountain has regained its ancient splendor and is known by various names, due to the numerous moves and locations it has had during its long history.
Designed in 1600 by Domenico Fontana and built by Michelangelo Naccherino and Pietro Bernini, the fountain was initially located in Plebiscito Square, on the facade overlooking Cesario Console Street. The main sculpture was a large statue of Jupiter, discovered during excavations at Cuma, which gave it the name “Fountain of the Giant”.
After being stored for decades in a municipal warehouse, in 1882 the fountain was moved near the “Palazzo dell’Immacolatella”, at Molo Piccolo, from which another of its names derives. However, this location was temporary: in 1886 the fountain was removed to allow for the expansion of the port, finally finding a place in 1889 inside the Villa del Popolo, a large public park in front of the market Square. This arrangement, however, did not meet expectations and, in 1905, with the decline of the villa now surrounded by port facilities, a new move was decided. The fountain was therefore placed in its current location.
The fountain is characterized by three round arches, decorated with the coats of arms of the city of Naples and of the viceroys who governed the city. In the center, a sculpture depicts the king, supported by two putti, while in the lateral arches there are two river deities holding sea monsters.
Curiosity:
A curiosity about the fountain is that it is also called “lovers’ fountain”, because there is a tradition that if a couple of engaged couples throw a coin into the central basin and manage to hit it, their relationship will be destined to last a long time.
Another interesting aspect is that the fountain inspired the designer Manfredo Manfredi, who used it as a location in the famous Carosello theme song, broadcast on RAI networks from 1957 to 1977. Furthermore, in 2017, the fountain was depicted on a stamp issued to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of the Carosello theme song. Not only a symbol of Naples, but also a protagonist of cinema, the fountain has appeared in numerous films, including Tempi nostri Zibaldone n°2 (1954) with De Sica, In ginocchio da te (1964) and Non son dubbio di te (1965) with Gianni Morandi.
'O Munaciello
Among the most enigmatic figures of Neapolitan folklore there is certainly ‘o Munaciello , or “the little monk”. This character, wrapped in a dark robe with a hood, is the protagonist of numerous popular beliefs.
The figure of the Munaciello has its roots in ancient and popular tales. According to one of the most widespread versions, this enigmatic character actually lived in the 15th century, precisely in 1445, during the reign of Alfonso V of Aragon. It would all be connected to the tragic love story between Caterina Frezza, daughter of a rich merchant, and Stefano Mariconda, a young man of humble origins. The two met secretly at night, with Stefano climbing on the roofs to reach his beloved. But one fateful night he fell into the void and died.
Catherine, locked in a convent after the incident, gave birth to a deformed son. To hide his deformities, she dressed him in a habit and a hood similar to that of the friars. The alleys of Naples began to fill with rumors about the “little monk”, or munaciello , who was often mocked. His death, which occurred under suspicious circumstances, led many to think that he had been murdered by his mother’s family. Despite this, his figure continued to be spotted and feared in the city, held responsible for inexplicable events and misfortunes.
The “ pozzari ” and the mystery of underground Naples
Another hypothesis identifies the munacielli with the pozzari , workers who took care of the complex underground water system of the city. They wore helmets and work cloaks that resembled religious robes and, thanks to their knowledge of the underground tunnels, they often emerged into homes to steal food, valuables, or court the women of the house. The families who spotted them in those fleeting moments began to call them, due to their strange resemblance to the friars, “ munacielli ”.
There is also a darker reading of this figure, which describes him as an evil spirit. Small, disturbing and mischievous, according to legend he would enjoy hiding objects or leaving coins to attract and deceive the living. Some say that one of his refuges is in the Montalto tower in Marina del Cantone, in the Massa Lubrense area. Others believe that he lives among the ruins of ancient monasteries or inside historic villas such as Villa Gallo.
The Munaciello is known for showing himself with benevolent or hostile gestures, depending on his sympathies. A popular proverb says: “‘O Munaciello : to those who enrich and to those who make poor ” . It is said that those who receive his benevolence can even become rich, but woe betide anyone who speaks of it: revealing his presence only brings bad luck. According to tradition, to ingratiate oneself with him one can leave food in the house; if it is appreciated, it could turn it into gold. But if the miracle is told, it will vanish forever.
Our intense visit has come to an end!
If you have another day (I hope so), I’ll leave you with a second itinerary below that you can follow to discover the other beauties of Naples (and that’s not even all of them!). Otherwise, you can click on the button below for my recommendations on some of my favorite restaurants!
Second day itinerary
Below are some of the most interesting monuments you may have missed on the first day! I’ll leave you a map with the itinerary. On this day, I’ve also included a few museums that will take several hours to visit: it’s up to you whether you want to visit them or not!
PS: brown markers are the one that you still need to see while yellow markers are the one that you already visited!
a) Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN)
One of the most important archaeological museums in the world, the MANN is housed in an imposing 17th-century building originally designed as a cavalry barracks and later transformed into a university building. It became a museum at the end of the 18th century by order of Charles of Bourbon, who transferred there the Farnese collections and the treasures from the excavations of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabia.
The architecture of the palace, sober and monumental, reflects the neoclassical and baroque taste of the time, with large internal courtyards and exhibition rooms of great elegance.
The MANN is famous throughout the world for its unique collections: Pompeian mosaics, frescoes, Greco-Roman statues, objects of everyday life, as well as the extraordinary Egyptian Collection, second only to that of the Egyptian Museum in Turin.
It is an essential place to understand the life, art and culture of antiquity, especially the Roman era.
The museum houses the famous Alexander Mosaic, found in the House of the Faun in Pompeii. It depicts the Battle of Issus between Alexander the Great and Darius III. It is composed of over a million tiles, and is one of the most iconic mosaics of antiquity.
One of the most famous (and controversial) sections of the MANN is the Secret Cabinet, which collects erotic finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum. For centuries it was accessible only to male scholars with special permission, as it was considered “scandalous” for the time.
If you missed it on the first day, Underground Naples awaits you!
b) Underground Naples
If you think Naples is only amazing on the surface, prepare to change your mind. Beneath the streets, alleys and squares lies an ancient and intricate world: Napoli Sotterranea. This journey takes you not only 40 meters underground, but also back in time, to prehistory.
An underground that tells the story
The subsoil of Naples is a living testimony to the long history of the city. It starts even in prehistoric times, but it is in the 3rd century BC that everything takes shape thanks to the Greeks. They were the ones who dug the first tuff quarries to build the walls and temples of their “Neapolis”.
In Roman times, the underground became an extraordinary feat of engineering. During the Augustan age, the Romans built complex aqueducts that brought water from distant sources, such as the springs of the Serino, a good 70 km away. The tunnels, narrow enough for a man to pass through, supplied fountains, homes and even the Piscina Mirabilis , the gigantic water reserve of the Roman fleet at Miseno.
Engineers of the time used cutting-edge techniques, such as hydraulic plaster to waterproof the tunnels, some of which still show traces of this ingenuity today.
From the Renaissance to the Second World War
As the city expanded in the 16th century, the ancient Greco-Roman aqueduct was no longer sufficient. It was the Neapolitan nobleman Cesare Carmignano who built a new water system to meet the growing demand for water.
But the underground was not only a functional resource. During the Second World War, these tunnels became air raid shelters to protect Neapolitans from bombings. The cisterns were illuminated and adapted to accommodate dozens of people. Even today, graffiti, remains of furniture and objects tell of the terror and resilience of those who found shelter there.
The visit takes place only accompanied by qualified guides and lasts about a little more than an hour. I leave you below the references to book (highly recommended in high season!)
If you didn’t visit it on the first day, we’ll move on to the Monumental Complex of Santa Chiara!
c) Monumental Complex of Saint Clare
Located in the heart of the historic center, the complex represents one of the most important artistic testimonies of Neapolitan heritage.
In addition to the famous Gothic basilica, the complex includes convent rooms, a museum dedicated to the Franciscan Work, an archaeological area with remains of Roman baths, a large bell tower and the Majolica Cloister.
The construction of the complex began in 1310, at the behest of King Robert of Anjou and Queen Sancia of Majorca. In addition to religious devotion, the sovereigns wanted to create a dynastic tomb of great prestige. The works, entrusted to Gagliardo Primario and Leonardo di Vito, were inspired by the Provençal Gothic style and led to the creation of a majestic basilica with a single nave, with ten side chapels and a façade dominated by a perforated rose window.
According to historical sources, it was Robert of Anjou himself who wanted Giotto to decorate the basilica with paintings, following Boccaccio’s suggestion. The frescoes narrated episodes from the life of the Virgin, Saint Francis and Saint Clare. Unfortunately, in the 17th century, many of these works were covered by Baroque stucco, and today only faint traces remain visible in some areas of the convent, accessible only through special guided tours.
On August 4, 1943, a devastating bombing raid hit Saint Clare, destroying much of the basilica and the baroque interventions carried out in the following period. However, the Maiolicato Cloister was miraculously spared. After the war, the architect Mario Zampino directed the restoration, restoring the original Gothic appearance of the basilica, although with the loss of the baroque decorations that had embellished the building for centuries.
The monastery also represents a singular case for its time: it was one of the first religious complexes to simultaneously host a male and a female order, the friars and the Poor Clares, thanks to a papal authorization granted in 1312 by Clement V.
The Cloister
The Cloister, designed by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro between 1739 and 1742, at the request of the abbess Ippolita di Carmignano, is a unique decorative masterpiece of its kind.
Characterized by 64 octagonal pillars decorated with colored majolica, the cloister is crossed by two avenues that divide it into four sections. The majolica seats depict scenes of rural life, myths and popular moments, with a single image inspired by monastic life: a nun feeding some kittens.
All around, a 17th-century frescoed portico frames the lively tiles, creating a visual harmony that invites reflection and contemplation.
Standing before the lively decorations of the Cloister of Santa Chiara, it is natural to ask: “How is it possible that a cloistered convent is so full of color and joy?” The answer is deeper than it seems. For the Poor Clares, who spent their entire lives within those walls, the cloister was a symbolic window on the world, a small Eden that reflected the beauty of Creation and offered spiritual comfort. Those serene landscapes, the animals, the flowers painted on the majolica tiles, represented a visual and mental refuge, a place to find inner harmony.
Maria Amalia of Saxony, wife of King Charles of Bourbon, also gave life to this explosion of colors. A woman of refined taste, she wanted to modernize the environment, perhaps intuiting – well in advance – the psychological power of colors. So she requested sunny shades such as yellow, blue and light blue, capable of lifting the spirits and fighting the melancholy that could strike young women forced into monastic life.
The Riggiole
Majolica, called “riggiole” in Neapolitan dialect, were not simple decorative tiles. Each square represented a fragment of life, a pastoral scene, an animal, an auspicious symbol. In an era in which images spoke louder than words, riggiole were visual messages that conveyed serenity, joy and even spiritual protection.
In fact, it was believed that the bright colors could ward off evil spirits and the evil eye. In short, an artistic talisman to protect the monastic community.
In a corner of the cloister there is a tender and curious scene: a nun feeding the convent cats. More than a simple decoration, it is a window into everyday life. In fact, cats were precious allies against mice, but also affectionate companions for the nuns, silent confidants with whom – it is said – they had long “conversations”.
Curiosity
Even though they were devoted to prayer, the life of cloistered nuns was not always as rigid as we might imagine. Many girls did not enter by vocation, but because they were forced by noble families: a choice that guaranteed social prestige, salvation of the soul and a nice saving on the dowry!
It is not surprising then that, behind the convent’s grates, small acts of daily rebellion were hidden. Some nuns managed to communicate with the outside through the parlor, exchanging not only words but also sweets, letters or fresh news.
The convent archives report curious episodes, some truly surprising. In a particularly snowy winter, some nuns transformed the snowy courtyard into an improvised sledding track, using water buckets as sleds. On other occasions, they entertained themselves with invented card games, as long as they maintained absolute silence so as not to attract the attention of the superiors.
There were also far more serious episodes, real scandals that made all of Naples talk. It is said that nuns, taking advantage of the gardens and the poor night surveillance, organized secret meetings with nobles of the city. A 17th century chronicle tells of a Poor Clare who managed to meet her lover in the cloister with the help of an accommodating concierge. When the meeting was discovered, a scandal broke out that also involved the aristocratic families, protectors of the nuns involved.
Among the most unusual episodes, there is a story of a clandestine party during Carnival, organized inside the cloister. The nuns, dressed up in costumes sent by relatives, even invited masked guests from outside. The joy was however crushed by a surprise check by the superiors, who put an end to the celebrations amid indignation and stifled laughter.
Some of the more daring nuns even managed to procure perfumes, small jewels or delicious foods, often with the collaboration of suppliers.
The cloister is open from Monday to Saturday from 9:30 to 17, while on Sunday from 10 to 14. The church is open every day from 7:45 to 12:45 and from 16:40 to 20. The full-price ticket can only be purchased at the local ticket office and costs €7.
If you want to enjoy a beautiful view, you can now walk to Castel Sant’Elmo! You can walk there (35 min, not really easy) or you can walk 10 minutes and get the funicular: I’ll leave you both options here!
d) Castel Sant'Elmo
Castel Sant’Elmo sits high above Naples on the Vomero hill, and yes — the climb (or funicular ride) is absolutely worth it.
The fortress dates back to the 14th century, originally built under Robert of Anjou, and later transformed in the 16th century by the Spanish into the massive star-shaped structure you see today. That six-pointed shape wasn’t just for style — it was designed for defense, giving soldiers better control over every possible angle of attack.
Over the centuries, the castle has been a military fortress, a prison (several political prisoners were held here during various uprisings), and today it hosts exhibitions and cultural events. But let’s be honest: most people come for the view. From the terraces you get one of the most complete panoramas of Naples — the historic center, Mount Vesuvius, the Gulf, and on clear days even Capri in the distance.
A small curiosity: locals sometimes joke that Castel Sant’Elmo is the place where you finally understand the geography of Naples. After wandering through narrow streets below, coming up here feels like switching to the city’s “overview mode.” It’s the perfect spot to pause, breathe, and see how beautifully chaotic Naples really is.
The next attraction is a private palace with a truly impressive internal staircase! You can choose to walk there (about 26 minutes) or take another funicular. I’ll leave you with both options!
e) Mannajuolo Palace
Mannajuolo Palace is a monumental building in Art Nouveau style. Built between 1909 and 1911, the building was designed by the architect Giulio Ulisse Arata together with the engineer Gioacchino Luigi Mellucci, at the request of the entrepreneur Giuseppe Mannajuolo . The building represents a milestone in reinforced concrete architecture, one of the first on Via dei Mille, and perfectly embodies the Art Nouveau style with neo-baroque influences.
Mannajuolo , a prominent figure of the time, was also involved in important works such as the thermal baths of Agnano and the construction of the Palace of Justice in Rome.
The building is spread over five levels, each divided into four apartments. A particular curiosity concerns the structure on the top, which from afar appears like a dome: in reality it is a concrete shell, designed to create a surprising optical effect.
Inside the palace lies its most iconic element: a monumental marble staircase, suspended and supported by a hidden wall structure.
This staircase, also made famous by the film “Napoli velata” by Ferzan Özpetek , is one of the most photographed architectural wonders of the city. Admiring it from the bottom up offers a hypnotic, almost dizzying perspective.
In 1925, the ground floor of the building housed the Kursaal Cinema-Theatre, the debut theatre of the historic theatre company “I De Filippo”, composed of Eduardo, Peppino and Titina. It was in this space that the famous opera “Natale in Casa Cupiello” was performed for the first time.
Although the theatre is no longer active, it is said that its walls still resonate with the laughter of the audience and Eduardo’s immortal jokes.
How to enter?
The access is not public, as it is a private residence, but you can politely ask the doorman to enter the courtyard and, if you are lucky, also admire the staircase. It is important to avoid inopportune hours and respect the tranquility of the residents.
The next attraction is another underground tour! If you have already visited “Napoli Sotterranea” (Underground Naples), you can skip to the next point!
f) Bourbon Gallery
It was Ferdinand II of Bourbon, in 1853, who wanted the construction of what we now know as the Bourbon Tunnel. Although the work was officially presented as a public infrastructure, it actually had a much more strategic purpose: the sovereign wanted a safe and fast escape route to the sea for himself and the royal family, in the event of revolts or disorders, as well as a direct connection between the Royal Palace and the barracks of Chiaia, where the military resided.
The works lasted about three years, and in 1855 the tunnel was crossed for the first time by the king. It remained accessible to citizens for only three days and was never completely finished: it extended for 431 meters, reaching behind the colonnade of Plebiscito Square.
During the excavations, ancient tuff quarries, huge water tanks and underground passages dating back to the Greek and Roman era were discovered. Vertical wells and an internal bridge were also built.
During the Second World War, the tunnel was reused as an air raid shelter by Neapolitan citizens. Later, until the 1970s, it was used as a judicial warehouse for the Municipality, where objects recovered from collapses, evictions, seizures and debris caused by the bombings were stored.
Today, walking inside it, you can admire vintage vehicles, such as cars and motorcycles, long buried under the rubble, as well as ancient statues restored and now exhibited along the path.
The reopening of the Bourbon Gallery to the public dates back to 2010, thanks to the commitment of a cultural association and numerous volunteers who contributed to the removal of debris accumulated over the years.
Tickets to visit the Galleria Borbonica cost €11. Here is the website where you can buy your ticket in advance.
The Galleria Borbonica is open only from Friday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm.
The gallery offers different itineraries, each with different characteristics and levels of accessibility:
- Standard Route : suitable for everyone, it crosses sections of the ancient 17th century aqueduct of the Bolla and the areas used as shelters during the war.
- Adventure Trail : for the more daring, it includes passages through narrow tunnels and sections to be traveled on a raft above the aquifer, with a visit to the underground cisterns. Not recommended for those who suffer from claustrophobia or have mobility difficulties.
- Speleo Route : the most challenging, it takes you through narrow tunnels, suspended bridges and cableways six meters high above bodies of water. Not suitable for claustrophobic people, those with physical problems or those weighing more than 100 kg.
- Memory Route : this itinerary passes through the ancient quarries and cisterns of the Serra di Cassano Palace and the shelters used during the bombings, including the one where the then young Giorgio Napolitano , future President of the Republic, took refuge. The route is accessible to all.
Next step: Teatro San Carlo!
g) San Carlo Theater
If you think opera is boring, San Carlo Theater is ready to change your mind! This jewel in the heart of Naples is not only breathtakingly beautiful, it is also the oldest opera house in Europe still in operation . It opened its doors on November 4, 1737 with the opera Achille in Sciro … not just pizza and figs!
It was Charles of Bourbon who strongly desired it , a king with refined tastes and a clear idea: to create a theater that would be the envy of all of Europe. So he called the architect Giovanni Antonio Medrano and the engineers Giovanni Marullo and Giuseppe Gagliardi to create something truly special. The new theater was to replace the old San Bartolomeo, which was now too small for the growing desire for entertainment in Naples at the time.
The result? A true masterpiece in neoclassical style , with a horseshoe plan (to see well from every seat) and a capacity of over 1,300 spectators ! The facade is elegant and solemn, with Doric pillars and a large triumphal arch that seems to say: “Welcome to the temple of music!”
In 1816 a fire caused great damage, but no fear: the San Carlo was restored more beautiful than before. And over time, between renovations and restorations, it has always maintained its unique charm.
Enter and prepare to be amazed: finely decorated loggias and galleries , private boxes (once reserved for the nobility), and a frescoed ceiling that tells mythological scenes with an incredible wealth of detail. There is also the legendary Royal Box , elegant and very private, from which the sovereign could enjoy the opera… without being disturbed.
If every note reaches the last row loud and clear, it is thanks to the extraordinary acoustics of the theater. Everything has been designed to guarantee perfect sound wherever you are seated.
The San Carlo was also one of the first public theatres in Italy , where anyone could attend performances, not just the elite. A true cultural revolution!
A Piece of Musical Heart Talents were born in this theater,
world premieres were presented , and Neapolitan music found a home. Even today, it is one of the most beloved places for those who want to experience opera with emotion, wonder… and a pinch of magic.
The ticket to take part in the guided tour costs €9. The visits at 10:, 11:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30 and 16:30 – Only the 11:30 and 15:30 ones are available in English, all the others are in Italian. Here is the website where you can book your guide.
Let’s walk to the last monument: Castel Nuovo – Maschio Angioino!
h) Castel Nuovo - Maschio Angioino
The construction of the castle was commissioned by Charles I of Anjou, who became king of Naples in 1266. Over the centuries, the structure underwent numerous modifications under the reign of various monarchs, but it was only in 1443, with Alfonso of Aragon, that the castle assumed its current form, becoming a true royal fortress.
In 1309, under the reign of Robert the Wise, the castle also became a cultural center of great importance. The king, passionate about art, hosted illustrious figures such as Francesco Petrarca, Giovanni Boccaccio, Pietro Cavallini and Giotto, helping to transform it into a culturally lively court.
Currently inside it are the Neapolitan Society of National History, with a library that collects crucial documents on the history of the city, and the Naples Committee of the Institute for the History of the Italian Risorgimento.
The name “Castel Nuovo” derives from the fact that the construction of the castle was begun in 1266 by Charles I of Anjou, the founder of the Angevin dynasty that ruled Naples. The term “new” refers to the fact that the castle represented a new fortress, replacing an older and less imposing defensive structure. The castle is also known by the name Maschio Angioino.
This name is instead directly linked to the Angevin dynasty that dominated Naples in the 13th century. The term “maschio” in Italian originally indicated a watchtower or a part of the most important fortification of a castle, often the one where the sovereign or the ruling family resided. Therefore, Maschio Angioino refers to the main part of the fortress built by the Angevins as a symbol of their power and domination over the city of Naples.
The castle is protected by five imposing towers, each of which is connected by a Catalan staircase that allows you to reach the top. The towers, together with the moats, constituted an effective defense against attacks from the sea. One of the most significant elements of the structure is the Palatine Chapel, which preserves original decorations and frescoes of the building, along with works added later, including some frescoes by Giotto.
Entering through the triumphal arch, formed by the two main towers, you reach the Hall of the Barons, which once served as a throne room. Another space of great interest is the Armoury Hall. In the 16th century, the Chapel of the Souls in Purgatory was added, which houses the Madonna del Carmine, the largest chapel in the castle. Before this, there was only the smaller Chapel of San Francesco di Paola.
In the castle’s basement, the prisons can be visited, which offer a starting point for reflection on the history of the place. For several years, the Civic Museum of the castle has allowed visitors to explore a collection of works from the school of Caravaggio and Neapolitan Baroque artists. In addition, there are several rooms dedicated to temporary exhibitions.
The full-price ticket costs 6€ and can be purchased at the castle ticket office. The castle is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm.
Our tour has come to an end but there still remains an important topic to address: the typical dishes of the city!
Typical dishes and where to eat them
Naples is certainly one of the Italian cities best known for its traditional dishes: here are some of the most famous!
Neapolitan ragù
is a rich sauce made with various cuts of meat (beef and pork) and tomatoes, slowly cooked for hours. It’s one of the symbols of Neapolitan Sundays.
Spaghetti alla puttanesca
A pasta dish topped with a flavorful sauce made with tomatoes, black olives, capers, anchovies, garlic, and chili pepper. It’s quick, fragrant, and bold.
Pasta and potatoes with provola cheese
A humble yet tasty dish, prepared with mixed pasta, potatoes, and smoked provola cheese, which melts into a creamy, enveloping texture.
Casatiello
A rustic Easter bread, shaped like a ring, filled with cured meats, cheeses, and whole eggs. Rich, savory, and a symbol of the holidays.
Macaroni Frittata
A leftover dish made with leftover pasta, eggs, cheese, and cured meats, pan-fried until crispy. It can also be eaten cold.
Peppered Mussels
Mussels cooked with garlic, oil, and lots of black pepper. Serve often with bread to soak up the flavorful sauce. Excellent as an appetizer.
Eggplant Parmigiana
Fried eggplant layered with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and Parmesan, then baked. One of the most popular dishes of all time.
Fried Pizza
Pizza dough filled with ricotta, cracklings, and salami, folded into a crescent shape and fried. Crispy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside.
Sausage and broccoli rabe
Pork sausages paired with broccoli rabe (turnip greens) sautéed with garlic, oil, and chili pepper. A rustic and flavorful main course.
Montanara
Mini fried pizza topped with tomato sauce, parmesan, and basil. Neapolitan street food par excellence.
Cuoppo
A paper cone filled with mixed fried foods: potato croquettes, arancini, pasta frittatas, and battered vegetables. Ideal for eating on the go.
Pastiera
A typical Easter dessert made with cooked wheat, ricotta, sugar, eggs, and flavorings like orange blossom and cinnamon. Fragrant and delicate.
Babà
A soft, leavened cake soaked in rum (or limoncello). Sometimes filled with cream or custard. An icon of Neapolitan pastry.
Sfogliatella
A sweet pastry filled with ricotta and semolina, flavored with orange zest. It comes in two versions: “riccia,” made with puff pastry, and “frolla,” made with shortcrust pastry.
Struffoli
Small balls of fried dough, covered in honey and decorated with colorful sprinkles. They are especially popular at Christmas.
Zeppole di San Giuseppe
Typical Father’s Day sweets, fried or baked, filled with custard and garnished with a syrup-soaked black cherry.
If you’d like, I can arrange these dishes in a table setting or create a complete Neapolitan menu with appetizers, first courses, second courses, and desserts. Let me know!
Where to eat all these delicacies?
The range of restaurants and venues is truly incredible in Naples. I tested several places and these are my favorites:
Trattoria da Nennella: Located in the Spanish Quarter, it’s undoubtedly one of the most famous places where you can experience true Neapolitan tradition. Click here to get there!
Pasticceria Poppella: Here you can taste typical Neapolitan sweets! Click here to get there!
Sfogliatelle Attanasio: One of the most famous places to try Neapolitan sfogliatelle! Click here to get there!
Antica Pizzeria Fritta da Zia Esterina: Excellent fried pizzas! Click here to get there!
Antica Pizzeria Brandi: The pizzeria that boasts the true birthplace of the Margherita pizza! Click here to get there!
Pescheria Azzurra: Great if you’re craving seafood! Click here to get there!
Tandem Ragù: Specializing in products featuring the classic Neapolitan ragù! Click here to get there!
The end?
Unfortunately, we have finished our tour! However, there are several things around Naples that you could visit: I’ll leave some tips below!
Sorrento
Located on cliffs overlooking the Gulf of Naples, Sorrento offers beautiful views of the sea, Mount Vesuvius and the islands on the horizon. Its historic center is full of small alleys, artisan shops and a relaxed atmosphere.
Pompeii
The ancient Roman city destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Today it is an extraordinary archaeological site where you can walk among ancient streets, houses and shops. Easy to reach from Naples, it’s an unforgettable dive into history.
Amalfi Coast
A stunning stretch of the Campanian coastline, known for its dramatic cliffs, colorful villages and breathtaking views. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and perfect for a scenic trip or for enjoying the area’s natural beauty.
Capri Island
A famous island in the Gulf of Naples, known worldwide for its natural beauty, sea caves, panoramic viewpoints and elegant atmosphere. Easily reachable by ferry from Naples or Sorrento, ideal for a relaxing day trip.
Herculaneum
Similar to Pompeii but smaller, Herculaneum was also buried by the eruption of Vesuvius and is exceptionally well preserved, with houses, decorations and original materials still visible. A quieter but equally fascinating archaeological visit.
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If, on the other hand, you had problems, have suggestions on how to improve it, or want to contact me, feel free to write me on WhatsApp by clicking here!
Are you going to visit other cities?
I have prepared different digital guides to enable you to other cities as well. All guides were written in collaboration with locals so that the most authentic stories and advice could be included!
In these digital guides you will find:
- Itinerary with the highlights of the city (connected with google maps) 📍
- Historical info, curiosities and funny facts 🤓
- FOOD TIPS from locals ! Every city has it’s own typical dishes so it’s super important to know about them 😬 Also, thanks to my local friends, you will discover real local restaurants to try them 😋!
I already prepared a special discount for you, you’ll find everything by clicking here!
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Greetings from your Walking Cap!
Matteo
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